Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tried searching but it returned with this error..

Erreur Sphinx : connection to localhost:3312 failed

Merci de contacter un Administrateur !

Anyway.. I rounded off one of my wheel nut and now can't get it out. It's one of those hex type wheel nut .. and the inside of the nut has been rounded so the hex key can't grip onto it.

Any idea on how to take it off? Or should I just try to pump up the tyre and drive it quickly to a mechanic? It's got a small piece of metal stuck on the tyre making it flat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254358-help-needed-fast/
Share on other sites

you may be able to (depending on how damaged the hex is) go to a tool shop and by the next size up allenkey socket attachment, so if the original one is 10mm you should be able to buy an 11mm one, maybe even a 10.5mm one. and then just use a hammer and hit it into the hex, make sure its in there real good then use a breaker bar to turn it.

Edited by QWK32

bunnings didn't have it.. they don't have allen keys this size, only smaller ones.

guess I gotta wait till tomorrow for other shops to be open to get the bigger allen socket.

those allen key with the bend doesn't seem to come in sizes this big I think..

just limp it to a mechanic, it can be their headache.

if you can fit a larger hex key in the centre (smash it in with a hammer) or a socket over the outside (same...hammer) that might work. But if its already stripped it may well be too tight.

if all else fails a good workshop can weld a good nut on and unbolt it.

BTW send the bill to the tyre shop that last did it up and ask why they don't use a torque wrench to do up wheel nuts like the workshop manual says

Hammer and chisel it out.

Or what Duncan said "a good workshop can weld a good nut on and unbolt it". Your mechanic could help you out there.

BTW how did you round off the nut? Did you use a rattle gun and blasted it in?

Well... I guess it was used by a rattle gun to tighten it in when I had my tyres replaced last time.

Couldn't be f**k doing anything in this heat so I just went and buy a portable air compressor and sit there for like 15mins letting it pump some air in the tyre. It wouldn't go pass 20psi and you can hear air pissing out. So I just drove it to the closest tyre shop and he got it out for me. I didn't watch him as I had to go back home to get my allen key socket that i forgot at home but it look's like he used a chisel with a hammer to get it out. Only charged me for a puncture as well.

I guess I was too paranoid to use the chisel and hammer cause I might miss and damage my rim. Ended up changing every nuts on the car as well as I don't want this to happen again and stay clear from rattle guns when putting them in.

Cheers for all the help.

^^Yeah all good then if the tyre place got it out for you.

In future, I use a wheel brace to tighen up the nuts and all done by hand.

This happen to me before when a tyre place replaced my tyres for my Lancer. The rattle gun cracked the bolt then over time water got in and rusted the bolt, went to get the bolt out, it rounded.

Now its all by hand or take it to my mechanic who does it all by hand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...