Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 50-70 is the RB26 equipped people (im one of em)

Im beginning to think that because of its position, its getting some pretty bad heatsoak and not giving the true reading.

I will toy with the option of moving it somewhere better i think to see if i cant get a better reading as it takes a good 15mins to my temp to creep upto 40+ on a cool day where the pipes feel the same temp after 5mins driving or 30 :ermm:

a set of gizzmo inlet gaskets makes a world of differrence.

I was thinking about the pressure danger side of things and remembered something a hydraulic engineer said to me. A pin hole in a hydraulic hose can squirt out hydraulic fluid with such force that it can cut. Worse is that when it cuts the skin and fills a cavity in your body with hydraulic fluid. Now consider that happening with liquid CO2, injecting liquid co2 into you, which then freezes your tissue before converting to a gas (possibly in your blood stream). Sounds like a pretty nasty way to die to me.

I was thinking about the pressure danger side of things and remembered something a hydraulic engineer said to me. A pin hole in a hydraulic hose can squirt out hydraulic fluid with such force that it can cut. Worse is that when it cuts the skin and fills a cavity in your body with hydraulic fluid. Now consider that happening with liquid CO2, injecting liquid co2 into you, which then freezes your tissue before converting to a gas (possibly in your blood stream). Sounds like a pretty nasty way to die to me.

Yay! finally someone else who has the knowledge/sense to bring up the dangers of high pressure and/or co2!

They insulate the plenum from the hot runners.

thanks mate....umm i know what the plenum is, just took at look at my car and there is a sorta brown/beige looking gasket but what are the hot runners?

Is this gizzmo item a worthy investment? will i see lowered intake temps?

ill do a search in a sec

I might be thinking of a different brand then, but I'm sure there's one out there that goes between the plenum chamber and runners.

Johnny, the "runners" are the individual tubes that go to each port :)

a set of gizzmo inlet gaskets makes a world of differrence.

Just for a sensor though its a bit of effort.

When the car is full noise the heat i dont think would really alter it that much ???

So relocating the sensor would be a darn sight easier than taking the entire plenum off wouldnt it?

Just for a sensor though its a bit of effort.

When the car is full noise the heat i dont think would really alter it that much ???

So relocating the sensor would be a darn sight easier than taking the entire plenum off wouldnt it?

Exactly! It wont make any diference. Consider air velocity as its entering the plenum (after coming out of the intercooler). Its not sitting in the plenum for a minute soaking up radiant heat. Its on the move and straight into the engine.

Reminds me of a twin turbo lexus 1uzfe v8 I was messing around with a few years ago. After 2 minutes on the skid pad held wide open at 6000-7000 rpm the plenum was warm but due to a good intercooler the AIT sensor never read above 35 degrees. Also, there was condensation all over the throttle body due to the pressure drop that was constantly there as the driver got off and on the throttle. The throttle was actually cold to touch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...