Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys & girls

Silly question, as im 99% sure i already know the answer....i just wanna be 100% sure before i get some injectors.

The GTR injectors are a direct replacement for RB20 injectors correct?? Im only looking at possibly an R33 S2 or Z32 turbo as a direct replacement & only 14psi or so for high boost, so a mild upgrade. GTR injectors should be ample for this, its just a bit of an added safety thing as i think the stockers i have arent quite the items they used to be. I know RB25 injectors are side feed, so basically i just wanna double check if the RB20 & RB26 top feed injectors are basically identical?? (apart from size & flow obviously)

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254586-injector-question/
Share on other sites

GTR injectors are direct replacement for RB20.

The only difference is you will need to wire in a resistor pack for the gtr injectors.

r33 turbo on a rb20 with tune should get you around 180-200kw atw.

The standard rb20 injectors max out at around 210kw atw.

So you could get away without getting gtr injectors but you will be sitting close to the limit..

Physical differences for GTR injectors are they have a yellow plastic top whereas the rb20 ones are red.

Also the connector for the power has a different notch (you will just need to file a bit of the connector on your loom for it to fit. It will make sense once you start connecting them up.

Cheers for the informative reply.

Only question, the resistor pack you mention....is that an item that comes standard on a gtr that i could pick up from the jap wreckers or something??

The rest is about what i thought the differences were....thanks again.

Resistor pack was a pain to get. I ended up getting one directly from Nissan, cause the wreckers were charging about as much (if they even knew what you were talking about)

Can't remember exactly but I THINK it was about $200 or something.....maybe less....

I will get a pic of it tonight if you like and post it up. Was fun wiring it up :P

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...det-t62674.html

Cheers for the informative reply.

Only question, the resistor pack you mention....is that an item that comes standard on a gtr that i could pick up from the jap wreckers or something??

The rest is about what i thought the differences were....thanks again.

Hey Chris,

yep the resistor pack does come standard on the GTR.

You can get it from here for $210 http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

I have one in my car from memory CRD charged me around $100 - $150 to wire it in.

I don't know if you guys have Turbo VG30det'd Gloria's down there or not, but they have the resistor packs in them as well. I you can find one in the junk yard, you can clip the harness after the plug so you still have it be detatchable if you ever needed. Sounds silly, but I shine mine up every once in a while and I wish I would have got the connecting clip along with everything.

hey sorry but why your on the topic of resister pack just wanna know i have a set of sard 534cc injectors and was told that i need a resister pack for them can i use the gtr one or do i need a special one if so on the gtr one does it matter what model gtr i get them from and if i need special ones where can i get them from thanks

If you just change the injectors they will tune them selfs down in flow with the stock ecu. its better to up the fuel by pump as well

Ah no, the stock ecu will keep injecting for the same amount of time, making the car run stupidly rich...

Hence the OP would also be looking at an aftermarket ECU.

you need the GTR plugs also, did a set today the rb20 plugs dont fit the gtr injectors (RB20 has offset pin whereas the GTR has central and internal locating pins). Fitting GTR resistor is a piece of piss to fit. If your lazy fit 6 x 10watt (6.8ohm) resistors inline to each injector.

post-34927-1233223981_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1233224037_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
you need the GTR plugs also, did a set today the rb20 plugs dont fit the gtr injectors (RB20 has offset pin whereas the GTR has central and internal locating pins). Fitting GTR resistor is a piece of piss to fit. If your lazy fit 6 x 10watt (6.8ohm) resistors inline to each injector.

When Abu fit them on his r32, all he did was shave off the conflicting notch and it all fit perfectly.

Let us know how much you charge to install+wire in resistor pack.

cheers

Cheers for the replies guys. I was tossing up whether to just buy some new replacement items for the RB20 which now sounds like a safer bet. The gtr injectors would have been 2nd hand anyway, so might as well just do it properly from the start.

The fuel pump is already a 500hp unit, as the stock pump turned out to be in bad shape when i got the car fixed & tuned a while back, so no need to worry about that.

When Abu fit them on his r32, all he did was shave off the conflicting notch and it all fit perfectly.

Let us know how much you charge to install+wire in resistor pack.

cheers

you have to take both notches off (takes longer than replacing plugs), and cause you need to cut the plugs off anyway i rather replace them. As for cost i dont usually do it.

The cost to buy GTR resistor + GTR injectors + fit is dearer. If you do the whole job DIY it is feasible, if not your best bet is to buy aftermarket

Further to the aftermarket thing, if you are buying brand new then get some with the right impedence. I got my Denso 550s from Powerflow Injection I think they're called, they're over east and I just went through the catalogue, found the appropriate injectors (size, style, impedence) and they supplied them along with the appropriate plugs.

Oh, and this was the stupidest comment I've ever heard..

If you just change the injectors they will tune them selfs down in flow with the stock ecu. its better to up the fuel by pump as well
Cheers for the replies guys. I was tossing up whether to just buy some new replacement items for the RB20 which now sounds like a safer bet. The gtr injectors would have been 2nd hand anyway, so might as well just do it properly from the start.

The fuel pump is already a 500hp unit, as the stock pump turned out to be in bad shape when i got the car fixed & tuned a while back, so no need to worry about that.

dude gtr injectors for the rb20 is the best option. Dont waste silly amount of money on aftermarket injectors.

You just get the injectors cleaned and they will be good as new (cost about $200 for 6 injectors to be cleaned and new orings etc)

you have to take both notches off (takes longer than replacing plugs), and cause you need to cut the plugs off anyway i rather replace them. As for cost i dont usually do it.

The cost to buy GTR resistor + GTR injectors + fit is dearer. If you do the whole job DIY it is feasible, if not your best bet is to buy aftermarket

hmm thanks for the info.

So the gtr injector plugs are on the gtr loom im assuming? Got a set of cleaned gtr injectors + gtr resistor pack sitting next to me. No motivation to them in haha

Let us know if you will be interested installing them, looking around for quotes atm.

Where did you find the plugs and how much do they roughly cost?

Thanks

Guest 40th-edition
Ah no, the stock ecu will keep injecting for the same amount of time, making the car run stupidly rich...

Hence the OP would also be looking at an aftermarket ECU.

NO, it will tune down using your O2 sensor as a guide and the ecu will tune down till its fuel air ratio is 14.7:1 again

^^^^Yeah good luck with that. No hope, you are fitting injectors that are a lot bigger, there is no self learning on th estock ecu. In closed loop it will try to lean it out, but nowhere near enough to get to 14.7:1. O2 feedback is only a trim, of 5% or so.

NO, it will tune down using your O2 sensor as a guide and the ecu will tune down till its fuel air ratio is 14.7:1 again

Erno. The O2 sensor is only utilised for closed loop operation at idle and light cruise.

Bigger injectors absolutely require a retune.

well he has the pump and if you fit inject 2 then may as well get the powe fc to tune it right so you dont do damage to engine or use to much fuel

keep_talking.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...