Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I had a quick search around but couldn’t exactly find what I was looking for, so here it goes. Breaks are coming to the end of their life and unfortunately the standard rotors are now unable to be machined back any further (front currently at 27.1mm). I have decided to go with slotted rotors this time around as one brand that the break specialist suggested was only around $50 more than a replacement stock item. Now what I would like to know is if anyone has tried slotted rotors by a company called RDA (Rotors and Drums Australia) for their series 1 GTS-t R33 and what were they like etc?

At the moment tossing up the slotted RDA or the slotted DBA 4000 club-spec rotors, can anyone give me some reasons that would make my decision between the two easier? From what I can see on the forum most who have used the slotted DBA have been fairly happy. Information on anyone’s experience with either would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25466-advice-on-slotted-rotors/
Share on other sites

Yeah, I put the slotted 4000 DBA rotors on about 3 month back now I think, front and rear. I since have done about two track days at Queensland Raceway (which equates to about 35 laps) and I am very happy with the result. We do sets of 7 lap sprints and have yet to experience any fade. Last weekend I was there and the first set was in 30+ degree heat and there was still no problem. The last set of the day I really gave them a hard time stomping on the brakes and still no fade (and took 1.3 sec of my PB!). So if you have a daily driver, and don't mind the odd track day I highly recommend the DBA club spec rotors. They work very nicely.

I too put DBA-4000 Rotors front and rear around 5mths ago. Yet to use them on a track but combined with my RB74 pads (www.racebrakes.com.au) these things stop dammmmn good.

(Now all I need to do is get my master cylinder re-sleeved and im back in the game)

  • 2 weeks later...

nismo_au I went to my local tyre and brake and he got me some discs, slotted front and regular rear (coulda got slots but they don't work too hard) for $650 the lot.

Want some info? I am going to my first track day on them next sunday at sandown so I can update you then on performance.

The DBA 4000s weigh less than the standard discs and have very good heat dissipating properties. If you want a very good product for the price you can't go past them.

Just shop around to get the best price as there's plenty of places out there who'll be more than happy to overcharge you. :P

I recently ran out rotor thickness with my R33 GTST and, as I do club supersprints, opted to get slotted rotors. The only ones I was able to secure at short notice were DBA, which Race Brakes Australia happened to have on the shelf.

In my case I needed the larger 296 mm diam. (DBA sent out the 268 mm ones before we realised there were 2 sizes and had to start again). I have to say I am very impressed with them; they're 32 mm thick and have great cooling properties thanks to the large ventilation latticework the core and the sheer mass of the rotor. Under heavy braking at Oran Park GP and Eastern Creek they did not exceed 550 degrees. It's possible to tell this by means of colour coded stripes on the rotor which change colour according to the maximum temperature reached.

The stopping power is, needless to say, also very impressive. I'm told the slots help to dissipate the gases which build up between the pad and the disc, as well as helping to clean the surface of the pad.

Worth every penny of the $490 I paid for the pair.

I agree. I wished I didn't have to spend 520 on getting them and fitting but afterwards I am so much happeir knowing that I can now stop. and they work. a guy in a merc slammed his brakes on woodville road and I almost rear ended him, the old brakes would not have pulled me up, good bye to the intercooler.....

Go DBA 4000's. try a repco store and they should be cheap. I was quoted 270 per rotor at other shops.

  • 10 months later...

"So whats the difference between the DBA slotted, and DBA 4000s??? Or isnt there a difference at all?"

you can get the 4000s in slotted and not slotted, i think thats the difference...

I got the DBA 4000 slotted from supercheap auto! dont laugh they were awesome, I called up and ordered them one arvo, they had them the next morn, and they only cost $900 for all four including the frieght costs.

best part is they are just simple bolt on replacements, so i had them on in about an hour and a half.

what was even better is that they stopped all the squeeling my performance pads made on the std rotors.

havent had them on the track yet, but they feel awesome on the street.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...