Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the german sounding ones are just high flows, most likely of stock 350z injectors.

high flowing can be done in oz for much cheaper, so no point getting from the states. Just high flow your factory ones.

i was told they are oem externals but denso internals.

also these are done by complete professionals and assure me i wont have any issues.

i guess i will know when they get here.

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK

Part numbers are 6 x PF60HG, 660 cc and ask for a 9mm rail spacer to suit Neo.

Supplier is powerflow performance 1300 880928 or [email protected]

Used the kit we had and it worked flawlessly.

Edited by URAS
OK

Part numbers are 6 x PF60HG, 660 cc and ask for a 9mm rail spacer to suit Neo.

Supplier is powerflow performance 1300 880928 or [email protected]

Used the kit we had and it worked flawlessly.

I called them today and got a quote and was told $1020 for 6x injectors plus plugs and spacers.

they are located in victoria and delivery to sydney is an extra $14.00

they come in to sizes 570cc and 630cc. both the same price.

they branded by siemens.

personally speaking for i would go the deatchwerks injectors which are straightfitment and direct replacement for $850 delivered to australia and are made from denso parts.

although like i said before i will let you all know how they go once i install them but i have heard nothing but great things about them from other sau'ers.

although like i said before i will let you all know how they go once i install them but i have heard nothing but great things about them from other sau'ers.

not raining on your parade, but you must have been looking at half the replies :P

but you're right, some people have had no issues with them. It's one thing for them to work ok, it's another thing for them to be nice to tune.

anyways, good luck and let us know how you go :)

not raining on your parade, but you must have been looking at half the replies :P

but you're right, some people have had no issues with them. It's one thing for them to work ok, it's another thing for them to be nice to tune.

anyways, good luck and let us know how you go :)

nobody said anything about deatchwerks injectors in particular but more on the subject of highflowing standard injectors.

ok operation Group buy is gonna still go ahead. cos i know for a fact i can do this for alot cheaper with new fuel rails and every thing.

I called them today and got a quote and was told $1020 for 6x injectors plus plugs and spacers.

they are located in victoria and delivery to sydney is an extra $14.00

they come in to sizes 570cc and 630cc. both the same price.

they branded by siemens.

personally speaking for i would go the deatchwerks injectors which are straightfitment and direct replacement for $850 delivered to australia and are made from denso parts.

although like i said before i will let you all know how they go once i install them but i have heard nothing but great things about them from other sau'ers.

Just get the Deatchwerks, they're plug 'n' play and work a treat, simple no hassle drop-ins. David knows what he's doing manufacturing them. And hey you even get cashback on your old cores when you send them to him after fitting your nice shiny new ones (with injector flow balance report, new o-rings and grease)

personally speaking for i would go the deatchwerks injectors which are straightfitment and direct replacement for $850 delivered to australia and are made from denso parts.

although like i said before i will let you all know how they go once i install them but i have heard nothing but great things about them from other sau'ers.

why? deatchwerks are just old std injectors high flowed...(well every customer supplied deatchwerks set anyway) get em highflowed locally (we do them for $70 change over each, so im sure other are the same)

Edited by URAS
why? deatchwerks are just old std injectors high flowed... get em highflowed locally (we do them for $70 change over each, so im sure other are the same)

this is what ive been told both verbally and on there website.

they are not a highflow otherwise this wouldnt of have been stated on there website.

Nissan Skyline RB25 (neo)Prices are for a flow balanced set of 6 injectors

All sizes feature the following...

100% new Denso manufactured injector

Flow rates and set balancing in-house by DeatschWerks

Flow balanced to within 1-2% (flow report included)

High Impedance coils to match OEM ECU

100% drop-in fitment (no connectors or adaptors required)

Excellent spray pattern and atomization for excellent idle and tuning

Coil latency available upon request

12-month comprehensive warranty

http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/produc...products_id=208

so whats the go?

Yeah they're not just highflowed. The 550cc version were bright red solution dyed plastic, not a repsrayed or highflowed Blue (R34) or Grey (350z) injector.

I was under the impression they're new items from Denso that are then calibrated by David for the given flow rate, matched and then sold as balanced sets.

Yeah they're not just highflowed. The 550cc version were bright red solution dyed plastic, not a repsrayed or highflowed Blue (R34) or Grey (350z) injector.

I was under the impression they're new items from Denso that are then calibrated by David for the given flow rate, matched and then sold as balanced sets.

well then whats the issue...

Yeah they're not just highflowed. The 550cc version were bright red solution dyed plastic, not a repsrayed or highflowed Blue (R34) or Grey (350z) injector.

I was under the impression they're new items from Denso that are then calibrated by David for the given flow rate, matched and then sold as balanced sets.

good to hear, cause all the ones ive had through were all highflowed stockies, especially the side feeds (r33).

Edited by URAS
good to hear, cause all the ones ive had through were all highflowed stockies, especially the side feeds (r33).

That could be quite true as I sent a load of R33 side feeds to David for cashback also, he mentioned they were damn hard for him to get.

just ordered my self a set from deatschwerks so will have em in a week.

i wil keep you updated in a few weeks when there fitted.

btw they are for r34 gtt.

also i will confirm price when i get my bank statement.

  • 3 months later...

Ta-da! I got my hands on the stock injectors from a BF Typhoon, looks like we're onto something then. The injector looks the same as the R34 ones, just need someone to post a pic as I can't get to my connectors anymore.

Should be able to get these for reasonable prices locally then :)

The box pictured is for Green 440cc injectors that went into the BF - part number 0280155968

P050709_091501.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...