Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have had a bit of a look on here for some posts on brakes and there is plenty on calipers and brake pads but was wondering what sort of rotors you guys run???

not talking about big AP setups or any aftermarket set up, was more along the line of RDA's? DBA's? aero tech etc etc but still on a factory caliper.

not really important what car either but some will ask so there for a R32 GTR

really just any general feed back would be great

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255849-brake-rotors/
Share on other sites

My slotted RDAs gave out on the track day, I gave them a floggin yes but I was told but others there that they won't last as long as the DBAs, different metals and manufacturing process apparantly...I've heard some say "they're from the same factory, so DBAs are just overpriced" and others just laugh when I mention that line so I dunno.

I've been through two sets of RDA front slotted rotors, next time it will be the DBA I don't see other track driven cars running RDA and that tells me there is either a reason or most track guys believe in buying brand name, considering some of the cars I've see at track days (low budget trailer hauled cars) I reckon it might be because of advice from others, make from that what you want...

My RDAs were shuddering by the end of a track day they were in their later life and I knew that they would maybe suck by the end of it but I didn't want to thrash the new set I had in the garage.

If someone can support the reasoning to buy DBA please shout it out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255849-brake-rotors/#findComment-4418992
Share on other sites

Project Mu are good, cheap & available. They can be had in either a one piece or a hatted 2 piece rotor. They are much better than either the RDA or the DBA rotors. If you are going near a track I would recommend them. If you just drive on the road the RDA's will be fine.

I have had a total of 8 DBA 4000 rotors. They are sitting in a pile on the floor of the shed as 6 of them are cracked. As mentioned earlier it is the return slots that cause the problem. In fact I would (for track purposes) avoid any rotor that has slots that continue to the outer edge of the rotor. I used the RDAs for one track day only & they survived ok. I wouldn't recommend them for continued usage however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255849-brake-rotors/#findComment-4419627
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...