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Okay as said before I got my block back from the machinist and I am almost ready to begin my build on the block. I have the sump at the shop getting the front transfer setup cut and shut. Question is I am reading and seeing some people having problems with bearing failure and in some cases the cleanliness of the build being a big factor. What can I do to clean the block after it has come back from the shop. I have access to a compressor at home. My plans are to first paint the block to the intended colour and then knock out the old welsch plugs and then get out my pressure washer and spray the entire thing thoroughly in all the ports and water and oil areas where the jackets were blocking and then use the compressor to blow out any remaining water it may have and then oil the bores. Is this advisable and if not what can be done as I don't want to have any shavings from the machine work foul my build?

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Well I prefer do the job myself and thoroughly. I guess the only way to get experience is to get down in to it hence the reason I am looking for helpful comments. Not everyone has access to highly qualified builders like in Aussieville, over here getting people to do a proper bore and hone job with a torque plate is near impossible, quicker to get a built jap car imported. I have brought in everything I have needed for my work as is needed. I look at it this way, it is my money being spent and I prefer I build it and destroy it than I pay my money for someone else to build it and destroy it. Anyone with words of helpful advice will be appreciated :).

well ok i'll help...

first the welshe plugs should be out b4 it gets bored, and b4 that it needs to be bathed. and b4 that it needs to be sonic tested for cracks/holes

then even b4 that u need the pistons u are using, as u need the right piston to bore clearance

and we havnt even gotten to how to measure everything properly

u see where i'm going?

  TriniGT said:
Well I prefer do the job myself and thoroughly. I guess the only way to get experience is to get down in to it hence the reason I am looking for helpful comments. Not everyone has access to highly qualified builders like in Aussieville, over here getting people to do a proper bore and hone job with a torque plate is near impossible, quicker to get a built jap car imported. I have brought in everything I have needed for my work as is needed. I look at it this way, it is my money being spent and I prefer I build it and destroy it than I pay my money for someone else to build it and destroy it. Anyone with words of helpful advice will be appreciated :).

lol buddy the general idea is to get sumone to build it properly so it doesnt destroy itself aka not wasting money.... or if u know wat ur doing in the first place ull be right....

ill let the engine builders that do this for a living comment on this....

Edited by skylinekid
  shanef said:
well ok i'll help...

first the welshe plugs should be out b4 it gets bored, and b4 that it needs to be bathed. and b4 that it needs to be sonic tested for cracks/holes

then even b4 that u need the pistons u are using, as u need the right piston to bore clearance

and we havnt even gotten to how to measure everything properly

u see where i'm going?

I understand where you're coming from shanef. I already got the pistons and had the block hone for piston to wall clearances. The thing is that when it was being honed I did not remove the welsh plugs. The blocked was not bored but form the honing there is some slick on the block that I want to cleanup. I am seeing some shavings in the water galleries so I am wanting to remove the welsh plugs and give it a good cleaning but I am not sure if anything can get caught up in any areas and wedge there. I am not sure if I am being too worried but I want a clean build, building the block is not a problem but the cleanliness of the block is what I am concerned about. I will look around to see if anyone local has access to a bathe to help my situation.

Thanks.

yep pull out welshe plugs and get it acid dipped/bathed

once u have it home, grab urself a bucket of warm soapy water, a dishwashing scrubbing brush and scrub the block, cradle & crank. with the block, use the garden hose and spray it into the oil gallery where the oil filter bolts to. that'll flush out all the crap in the oil galleries.

then dry it off with an air compressor. grab a can of wd40 and soak all the oil gallery tubes and water tubes, also the inside of the block. then grab a can of engine enamel and paint the outside. clean off any overspary thats on both decks

bring it all inside and start assembly

  shanef said:
its obvious u dont really know what you are doing.

leave it to an experienced engine builder, u will have problems

Hey it was almost 20 years ago when an ambitious 17 year old wanted to strip his engine out of his newly acquired R/T Charger and rebuild it...just to see how it worked. Admittedly with a little advice from my dad who is a mechanical enginner i rebuilt it in my home garage. It then snowballed with me doing engines for various Chargers to the point i was suppling engines to one of the teams racing a Charger in the historic series. Then came the Nissan's....

TIP. take your time...cleanliness is paramount.

  TriniGT said:
I already got the pistons and had the block hone for piston to wall clearances. The thing is that when it was being honed I did not remove the welsh plugs. The blocked was not bored but form the honing there is some slick on the block that I want to cleanup.

Thanks.

this quote above is concerning me, and i was wondering why no one else has mentioned it.

what type of pistons have you got?

and what size are they?

std or oversize?

forged or cast?

  dangerman4 said:
this quote above is concerning me, and i was wondering why no one else has mentioned it.

what type of pistons have you got?

and what size are they?

std or oversize?

forged or cast?

Because it is irrelevant.

  Conrad 2NR said:
Because it is irrelevant.

?

how can honning a second hand 100,000 kay bore possibly get it perfectly round?

let alone perfect piston clearences on all sides of the pistons.

stock cast pistons maybe if your trying to do everything on the cheap, but i hope there not forged pistons.

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