Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Cooler From Snow Performance Usa


Kujotk
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've gotten hold of this part called a boost cooler. its made by www.snowperformance.net

either way I have no idea how it works, this video says they don't need an intercooler and its meant to run better than an intercooler....

http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=boos...4&ct=title#

Can anyone explain how this works as i have the ecu for it but haven't met any one who knows what it is lol.

It was given to me from a mate who recently moved to USA and recons its what they useing up there now.... :geek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

makes sense, but i dont think it would be very practical for street use as you would have to have 3 seperate fluid seystems fuel, meth and water.

ok for drags though.

two fluid systems water/meth mix and petrol, the way the boostcooler setup works is that its boost activated. it only consumes the water/meth mix while you have say more than 6psi of boost or how ever you choose to set it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does it make a differnce?

who installed it? and is there someone here that sells parts for them?

i only have the black box (the expensive part of it)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does it make a differnce?

who installed it? and is there someone here that sells parts for them?

i only have the black box (the expensive part of it)

a) yes, although you need to pay for a re-tune. Then you run the risk of blowing up your motor if the pump fails at high boost, or you run out of meth.

b) you can do a search,

c) as far as I know, parts (nozzles, tubing, pumps, etc) come from dealers in the states - for example, via ebay, you'll see lots of listings.

d) the pump is also expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

running out of meth is only an issue if you don't take at least the basic precautionary measure of installing a level switch in the tank so that you know ahead of time via a warning light that it is getting low.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

running out of meth is only an issue if you don't take at least the basic precautionary measure of installing a level switch in the tank so that you know ahead of time via a warning light that it is getting low.

of course but just an example.

could also be a blocked nozzle, a split line, a failed pump or failed controller..

it probably won't happen but a good system will have some failsafe mode.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hey GTSboy thanks for the quick reply. im on stock ECU  Surprisngly enough i unplug everything and replug everything, readings are still off but the car drove...ok haha So far this is what i have done. - Replaced ECU (still 1.5v) - Replaced Boost sensor (still 1.5v) Now the next thing i tried is to unplug the TPS and only plug in the Boost sensor to see if it reads 5v. No it still only read 1.5v.  Its a new boost sensor and i know i have 5v if i dont plug the sensor back in, so that means the power wire is good. So now im thinking that it might be a bad ground on the boost sensor plug.  on the FSM says the ground to the boost sensor is  a sensor ground, can i add a ground wire from the boost sensor ground wire to the the engine itself to ground it? or chassis?
    • OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
    • Need something reliable, like a Mazda (non-rotary), or a Honda, or a .......... Commodore 🤣, the only issue with my cars is me 🫤
    • Then sell it and buy a BMW! I can totally relate to this (except the money part! ). I think for me I need to remind myself that I do enjoy the process and to stop being so damn impatient and eager to get it done. That just leads to frustration and broken stuff.  Built not bought. Wait.  Fixed, not fought? No ... Definitely fighting things. Definitely not fixed, I give up. Cars are pain.  
×
×
  • Create New...