Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as tittle says, been trying to find some pic's of how it's done..

i know the head is drilled and tapped and a fitting is put in then a return line is fitted and another hole is drilled and tapped to the sump..

where exactly is this done on the head...eg front, left side, right side, back ect..

where exactly is this done on the sump... front, rear ect...

any one got any pics to show us???

Any help much appreciated

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256106-head-to-sump-oil-return/
Share on other sites

hey man, from what i can tell it goes from the top welsh plug at the back of the engine, and down to the sump (un sure where) it goes under the plenum side so im guessing anywhere really aslong as its higher than all the oil so it works well,

got a pic, i took it from the oil control thread on this forum, may be some more pictures? would be worth a look?

post-17389-1234093630_thumb.png

heaps of people just fabricate a fitting to do the job. the return is then plumbed back into the sump on the plenum side becasue of the way the crank turns it helps to promote flow into the sump and not get sloshed back up from the crank.

as tittle says, been trying to find some pic's of how it's done..

i know the head is drilled and tapped and a fitting is put in then a return line is fitted and another hole is drilled and tapped to the sump..

where exactly is this done on the head...eg front, left side, right side, back ect..

where exactly is this done on the sump... front, rear ect...

any one got any pics to show us???

Any help much appreciated

Aaron

TUFFRX3 ,makes dash 10 and dash 8 press in fittings for the oil drain off the back of the head ,i have just brought some .no drilling needed ,just press it in and its done .i think he has some pix loaded in the for sale section

cheers

They really are not needed...

i have been told this to by my tuning shop is this true guys? im just building my engine now it has a greddy oil pump got a oil restrictor for head and trust sump extension do i need this return line?

cheers for the pic sly32...

what i read must have been way off, those welsh plug oil drain seem to be the way to go....

cheers to r33cruiser i'm definetly getting one from spool,

only $110 for the oil drain or $250 for the kit with the oil drain, speedflow fittings and hose...

Edited by vspec_gtr32
cheers for the pic sly32...

what i read must have been way off, those welsh plug oil drain seem to be the way to go....

cheers to r33cruiser i'm definetly getting one from spool,

only $110 for the oil drain or $250 for the kit with the oil drain, speedflow fittings and hose...

the questions is... i hear ppl call them just a bandaid fix to a problem... ne other comments on whether there really needed

the questions is... i hear ppl call them just a bandaid fix to a problem... ne other comments on whether there really needed

not required...they dont drain anything substancial...they actually vent the sump on big clearanced race engines. On a properly built street engine they are waste of money, time and damage to firewall.

Notice two fuel rails on the picture supplied in post #2 (it was from another thread that i posted this picture in) Its a big $$ big clearanced racing engine.

Edited by DiRTgarage
TUFFRX3 ,makes dash 10 and dash 8 press in fittings for the oil drain off the back of the head ,i have just brought some .no drilling needed ,just press it in and its done .i think he has some pix loaded in the for sale section

cheers

And IMO, they're shit.

I have one on my R33... There is NO CHANCE you can ever fit the 90 degree bend whilst the head is in place, without unbolting the engine mounts and lowering the engine.

Once you have it on, it sits in the way of the heat hoses, and then, still sits hard against the firewall.

If I had my time again, I wouldn't do it.

Forgot to mention, I'm only running the dash 8... No idea how the people with Dash 10s fitted theirs!

Edited by MBS206
And IMO, they're shit.

I have one on my R33... There is NO CHANCE you can ever fit the 90 degree bend whilst the head is in place, without unbolting the engine mounts and lowering the engine.

Once you have it on, it sits in the way of the heat hoses, and then, still sits hard against the firewall.

If I had my time again, I wouldn't do it.

Forgot to mention, I'm only running the dash 8... No idea how the people with Dash 10s fitted theirs!

couldnt agree more.. sure there cheap.. but not suited at all.. the ones from spool are a much better option!

Well its been covered in past threads if he needed to find out why, but then its been posted in here as well since

i know it has.

i was just bringing to light ur yet again hypocritical ramblings. ur the first to pull up others on totally useless posts that have a suggestion but no fact to back them up.

just keeping u on ur toes :D

not required...they dont drain anything substancial...they actually vent the sump on big clearanced race engines. On a properly built street engine they are waste of money, time and damage to firewall.

Notice two fuel rails on the picture supplied in post #2 (it was from another thread that i posted this picture in) Its a big $$ big clearanced racing engine.

paul, im curious to know how the drain vents the sump. i have a rough idea of where ur going but if u wouldnt mind can u elaborate please

i know it has.

i was just bringing to light ur yet again hypocritical ramblings. ur the first to pull up others on totally useless posts that have a suggestion but no fact to back them up.

just keeping u on ur toes :D

no fact? easy now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinda glad I never got to this ..    https://www.facebook.com/groups/1483859159195077
    • @GTSBoy This method was able to get readings of -10 to -2, so it looks like its monitoring.  Now I need to figure out why the vacuum on the line provided isn't alternating with manifold pressure.  I went with 2 lines that an RB25 tuner recommended but I'll get a longer hose and try directly off the back of the manifold.  He may have been used to OEM intake setups while I have a DBW setup that removed the MAF and IACV.  
    • I work at a car detailing and tinting shop called Quark which gets all manner of German cars in usually (mainly due to a contract with Mercedes Benz Kita Osaka, BMW Nishinomiya and others) but every once in a while something special comes in, like a fully restored 1972 HS30 Nissan Fairlady 240ZG... The shop owner had immediately started applying film to the windows as soon as it was in the shop so the interior was completely covered in towels and plastic sheets. But I could get a few photos of the engine bay which was restored like new. Such an amazing car to see in pristine condition in Japan these days.  
    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
×
×
  • Create New...