Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Something to consider is the oil from your catch can will foul up the oil in the sump. I'd only do it on the track and even then only if your pushing litres of oil into the can (enough to drop the level in the sump).

Dude, blow by is anything that makes it past the rings i.e. oil, unburnt fuel, carbon, etc. That would be HORRIBLE for you oil. There is no reason what so ever to do this, other than hating your engine.

Dude, blow by is anything that makes it past the rings i.e. oil, unburnt fuel, carbon, etc. That would be HORRIBLE for you oil. There is no reason what so ever to do this, other than hating your engine.

Agreed... also, if you're getting that much blow by that a catch can gets full in more than a months worth of street driving or 3-4 track days, your engine is well and truly shagged and/or you're pushing it too hard (too much boost perhaps?)

Dude, blow by is anything that makes it past the rings i.e. oil, unburnt fuel, carbon, etc. That would be HORRIBLE for you oil. There is no reason what so ever to do this, other than hating your engine.

Vent the catch can.

The combustion gasses that push past the rings push up the oil return feeds while oil is attempting to run in the opposite direction and then out of your breathers.

Vent that sump and your problem is mostly solved.

Mine breathes zero; catch can is always clean. On the dyno the cans breather is clean running 1.6bar.

Setup the heads oil restriction correctly, vent the sump and you'll have no issues. providing the motor has been built well.

I've seen some 'well' built motors piss crap out of the cans breather.

Edited by TheRogue

If your catch can runs dry there's no need for the return to the sump then is there?...

For a street car with 5k service intervals this is a bad idea - if your racing the car and doing regular changes (ie after every track day) then its not a problem.

I find my catch can runs bone dry when drag racing and cruising around on the street but as soon as a corner is thrown in the can fills up. Apparently the mines baffles will help but otherwise I'l have to run a drain for track days etc.

Your missing the point.

Its primary purpose is to VENT the sump not return oil. Vent the sump and you won't have to worry about the pressure from the sump picking up oil and blowing it in to your catch can.

If your can starts filling with track use mines baffles are a bandaid/waste of $$.

Fix the problem properly; restrict the oil flowing to the head 'slightly' and vent the sump. Problem solved, or at the very minimum vent the sump it will make a world of difference.

Have a good think 'WHY' your catch can is filling.....

Sump pressurises due to combustion gasses leaking past the rings at WOT

Where is that pressure going to vent?

Its going to push up the heads oil return galley in to the cam covers.

On its way it passes oil going in the opposite direction picking up a little, heating and slowing the oil return.

As it slows the oil return more oil stays in the head excasabating the problem of too much oil in the head.

Combine that with constant RPM and you have oil pooling in the top end; the pressure blows out your breathers and starts to fill the catch can.

As I said; vent the sump to the catch can; run a nice 3/4" hose and you won't have issues. Make sure the catch can has baffles/steel wool etc to prevent any oil vapor soiling the cans vent and possibly having scrutineers pull you up on it if its bad enough.

The sump return as you put it is not a oil return; think of it as a sump vent.

The cam cover breathers will then do very minimal work if any as all the pressure will be released from the sump and not from the cam covers.

Edited by TheRogue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...