Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome car!

I, myself took a while to find any info on it. The company is more so a tuning garage for Japanese performance cars and have done afew Euro cars and produce their own cars.

+ their website does not say much about it either and not much info at all on the AWD system tho...

All I know atm is the Tommy Kaira ZZ II was a $90,000 sportcar door coupe production car with a reverse mid mounted RB26DETT with 550hp (410.14 kW), 6 speed manual gearbox, does 0-400 metres in 3.3 secs and weights about 1500 lbs (680 kg) with 6pot front brake calipers and 4pot rear brake calipers.

It also featured front and rear aero diffusers, and a fully built roll cage.

IMO it is one powerfull and lightweighted fast car.

http://www.fast-autos.net/vehicles/Tommy_Kaira/2001/ZZII/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tommy_Kaira

:D

Yeah I was suprised too, but its what I could only find on Fast Autos forum...

it was a fun car to drive on GT3 :laugh: well maybe not that particular model

Yes I was a fun car to drive in GT3.

I AM AGREEING WITH YOU! ;)

:D

LMAO! THANK YOU! :)

Thanks SKYLINE i already found out that much, i just want to know how to run the 26 gearbox in reverse and still have 5 forward and 1 revers gears :) keen on building something similar to a ZZII...

As they say "Crazy Japs" LOL! The things they do amazes me too and keeps me wondering.

All I can think of is they have modified the gear setup in the gearbox and the drivetrain...

Anyway all the best on your conversion.

To build one KISIN you would require a totally custom gearbox, the front diff in the sump could be utilised to drive the rear wheels, drive to that diff could be sent in the same way as a normal gtr (just backwards) and forwards to a front diff (which would usually be to the rear) but it would all have to spin backwards, lock the transfer case and be totally modified to have the H pattern shift the correct way around fro the driver. Then you would need to build the car, which you could build as a full spaceframe with intergrated roll cage, then glass fiber body, custom lights, fittings, glass etc...

If you were going to all this trouble you would probably want to register it as an ICV so you can drive it on the road, which, depending on your particular state you would need a suitably new engine, I think 3-4 years old or there abouts with the factory computer and emissions equipment...

You will spend well in excess of 6 figures, mabey even just for the gearbox, and it will take thousands of hours of custom fabrication. Good luck with the project KISIN, keep us all updated with a build log :thumbsup:

it's 0-60ks in 3.3sec..
Im sure they meant 0-100km/h in 3.3....

400mtr is a qtr mile...

Yeah my bad LOL! 0-100km/h in 3.3 secs. I don't know about the quater mile... Damnit can't edit my post...

In USA it would be 0-60mph in 3.3 secs.

To build one KISIN you would require a totally custom gearbox, the front diff in the sump could be utilised to drive the rear wheels, drive to that diff could be sent in the same way as a normal gtr (just backwards) and forwards to a front diff (which would usually be to the rear) but it would all have to spin backwards, lock the transfer case and be totally modified to have the H pattern shift the correct way around fro the driver. Then you would need to build the car, which you could build as a full spaceframe with intergrated roll cage, then glass fiber body, custom lights, fittings, glass etc...

If you were going to all this trouble you would probably want to register it as an ICV so you can drive it on the road, which, depending on your particular state you would need a suitably new engine, I think 3-4 years old or there abouts with the factory computer and emissions equipment...

You will spend well in excess of 6 figures, mabey even just for the gearbox, and it will take thousands of hours of custom fabrication. Good luck with the project KISIN, keep us all updated with a build log :thumbsup:

Interesting... Sounds like you done it before?

Yes updates will be good.

To build one KISIN you would require a totally custom gearbox, the front diff in the sump could be utilised to drive the rear wheels, drive to that diff could be sent in the same way as a normal gtr (just backwards) and forwards to a front diff (which would usually be to the rear) but it would all have to spin backwards, lock the transfer case and be totally modified to have the H pattern shift the correct way around fro the driver. Then you would need to build the car, which you could build as a full spaceframe with intergrated roll cage, then glass fiber body, custom lights, fittings, glass etc...

If you were going to all this trouble you would probably want to register it as an ICV so you can drive it on the road, which, depending on your particular state you would need a suitably new engine, I think 3-4 years old or there abouts with the factory computer and emissions equipment...

You will spend well in excess of 6 figures, mabey even just for the gearbox, and it will take thousands of hours of custom fabrication. Good luck with the project KISIN, keep us all updated with a build log :thumbsup:

Thanks for the reply. Ive already found someone that can build me a chassis and another for the body. Very good points you bring up, ICV - thats the path i hope to take, but 6 figures, maybe just for the gearbox ???

Apparently a company in the US can build this for me "no problems at all", however unless i see one of their models working, im not ordering anything with the aussie $$ this weak...to their credit though, ive seen their other work and its pretty damn good, even modified a lambo for SEMA...According to them, its piss easy to get it to work.

Just had a thought - the porche 4wd gearbox could be worth looking at, I think porche engines spin the right way, then the drive to the front wheels will be fine, H pattern is ok, the only trouble would be building an adapter plate to mate to the RB, and sending drive rearwards - you would need to remove the rear drive diff in the gearbox and send drive rearwards with a driveshaft - being very careful of final drive ratios, but they should be able to handle the power straight out of the box. Also you could even use one of the flappy paddle gearboxes for extra techy'ness.

*dont underestimate the cost of a gearbox for such a project - it will probably be the most expensive single part!

If you are keen to register it, talk to your local transport authority about building an ICV and they will point you in the direction of approved engineers to help you :D

Just had a thought - the porche 4wd gearbox could be worth looking at, I think porche engines spin the right way, then the drive to the front wheels will be fine, H pattern is ok, the only trouble would be building an adapter plate to mate to the RB, and sending drive rearwards - you would need to remove the rear drive diff in the gearbox and send drive rearwards with a driveshaft - being very careful of final drive ratios, but they should be able to handle the power straight out of the box. Also you could even use one of the flappy paddle gearboxes for extra techy'ness.

*dont underestimate the cost of a gearbox for such a project - it will probably be the most expensive single part!

If you are keen to register it, talk to your local transport authority about building an ICV and they will point you in the direction of approved engineers to help you :D

Already had a chat to the transport department regarding ICVs and the gearbox is what im worried about the most !

hahaha.. post up pics of the build when youve got everything!

would be interesting to see it.

Well i have a fairly unique body *hopefully* getting made and right now i know there will be many haters because of what it will "copy" so to say...but im building MY dream car for ME :domokun: Hoping to have this baby done in a couple of years (yes couple, and thats pretty quick if you ask some others who have built cars from scratch). Pretty close on striking a deal with the US company, just the body is holding me back...you'll see why 1 day lol :) Until then buying an investment property to help fund this sucker !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...