Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome car!

I, myself took a while to find any info on it. The company is more so a tuning garage for Japanese performance cars and have done afew Euro cars and produce their own cars.

+ their website does not say much about it either and not much info at all on the AWD system tho...

All I know atm is the Tommy Kaira ZZ II was a $90,000 sportcar door coupe production car with a reverse mid mounted RB26DETT with 550hp (410.14 kW), 6 speed manual gearbox, does 0-400 metres in 3.3 secs and weights about 1500 lbs (680 kg) with 6pot front brake calipers and 4pot rear brake calipers.

It also featured front and rear aero diffusers, and a fully built roll cage.

IMO it is one powerfull and lightweighted fast car.

http://www.fast-autos.net/vehicles/Tommy_Kaira/2001/ZZII/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tommy_Kaira

:D

Yeah I was suprised too, but its what I could only find on Fast Autos forum...

it was a fun car to drive on GT3 :laugh: well maybe not that particular model

Yes I was a fun car to drive in GT3.

I AM AGREEING WITH YOU! ;)

:D

LMAO! THANK YOU! :)

Thanks SKYLINE i already found out that much, i just want to know how to run the 26 gearbox in reverse and still have 5 forward and 1 revers gears :) keen on building something similar to a ZZII...

As they say "Crazy Japs" LOL! The things they do amazes me too and keeps me wondering.

All I can think of is they have modified the gear setup in the gearbox and the drivetrain...

Anyway all the best on your conversion.

To build one KISIN you would require a totally custom gearbox, the front diff in the sump could be utilised to drive the rear wheels, drive to that diff could be sent in the same way as a normal gtr (just backwards) and forwards to a front diff (which would usually be to the rear) but it would all have to spin backwards, lock the transfer case and be totally modified to have the H pattern shift the correct way around fro the driver. Then you would need to build the car, which you could build as a full spaceframe with intergrated roll cage, then glass fiber body, custom lights, fittings, glass etc...

If you were going to all this trouble you would probably want to register it as an ICV so you can drive it on the road, which, depending on your particular state you would need a suitably new engine, I think 3-4 years old or there abouts with the factory computer and emissions equipment...

You will spend well in excess of 6 figures, mabey even just for the gearbox, and it will take thousands of hours of custom fabrication. Good luck with the project KISIN, keep us all updated with a build log :thumbsup:

it's 0-60ks in 3.3sec..
Im sure they meant 0-100km/h in 3.3....

400mtr is a qtr mile...

Yeah my bad LOL! 0-100km/h in 3.3 secs. I don't know about the quater mile... Damnit can't edit my post...

In USA it would be 0-60mph in 3.3 secs.

To build one KISIN you would require a totally custom gearbox, the front diff in the sump could be utilised to drive the rear wheels, drive to that diff could be sent in the same way as a normal gtr (just backwards) and forwards to a front diff (which would usually be to the rear) but it would all have to spin backwards, lock the transfer case and be totally modified to have the H pattern shift the correct way around fro the driver. Then you would need to build the car, which you could build as a full spaceframe with intergrated roll cage, then glass fiber body, custom lights, fittings, glass etc...

If you were going to all this trouble you would probably want to register it as an ICV so you can drive it on the road, which, depending on your particular state you would need a suitably new engine, I think 3-4 years old or there abouts with the factory computer and emissions equipment...

You will spend well in excess of 6 figures, mabey even just for the gearbox, and it will take thousands of hours of custom fabrication. Good luck with the project KISIN, keep us all updated with a build log :thumbsup:

Interesting... Sounds like you done it before?

Yes updates will be good.

To build one KISIN you would require a totally custom gearbox, the front diff in the sump could be utilised to drive the rear wheels, drive to that diff could be sent in the same way as a normal gtr (just backwards) and forwards to a front diff (which would usually be to the rear) but it would all have to spin backwards, lock the transfer case and be totally modified to have the H pattern shift the correct way around fro the driver. Then you would need to build the car, which you could build as a full spaceframe with intergrated roll cage, then glass fiber body, custom lights, fittings, glass etc...

If you were going to all this trouble you would probably want to register it as an ICV so you can drive it on the road, which, depending on your particular state you would need a suitably new engine, I think 3-4 years old or there abouts with the factory computer and emissions equipment...

You will spend well in excess of 6 figures, mabey even just for the gearbox, and it will take thousands of hours of custom fabrication. Good luck with the project KISIN, keep us all updated with a build log :thumbsup:

Thanks for the reply. Ive already found someone that can build me a chassis and another for the body. Very good points you bring up, ICV - thats the path i hope to take, but 6 figures, maybe just for the gearbox ???

Apparently a company in the US can build this for me "no problems at all", however unless i see one of their models working, im not ordering anything with the aussie $$ this weak...to their credit though, ive seen their other work and its pretty damn good, even modified a lambo for SEMA...According to them, its piss easy to get it to work.

Just had a thought - the porche 4wd gearbox could be worth looking at, I think porche engines spin the right way, then the drive to the front wheels will be fine, H pattern is ok, the only trouble would be building an adapter plate to mate to the RB, and sending drive rearwards - you would need to remove the rear drive diff in the gearbox and send drive rearwards with a driveshaft - being very careful of final drive ratios, but they should be able to handle the power straight out of the box. Also you could even use one of the flappy paddle gearboxes for extra techy'ness.

*dont underestimate the cost of a gearbox for such a project - it will probably be the most expensive single part!

If you are keen to register it, talk to your local transport authority about building an ICV and they will point you in the direction of approved engineers to help you :D

Just had a thought - the porche 4wd gearbox could be worth looking at, I think porche engines spin the right way, then the drive to the front wheels will be fine, H pattern is ok, the only trouble would be building an adapter plate to mate to the RB, and sending drive rearwards - you would need to remove the rear drive diff in the gearbox and send drive rearwards with a driveshaft - being very careful of final drive ratios, but they should be able to handle the power straight out of the box. Also you could even use one of the flappy paddle gearboxes for extra techy'ness.

*dont underestimate the cost of a gearbox for such a project - it will probably be the most expensive single part!

If you are keen to register it, talk to your local transport authority about building an ICV and they will point you in the direction of approved engineers to help you :D

Already had a chat to the transport department regarding ICVs and the gearbox is what im worried about the most !

hahaha.. post up pics of the build when youve got everything!

would be interesting to see it.

Well i have a fairly unique body *hopefully* getting made and right now i know there will be many haters because of what it will "copy" so to say...but im building MY dream car for ME :domokun: Hoping to have this baby done in a couple of years (yes couple, and thats pretty quick if you ask some others who have built cars from scratch). Pretty close on striking a deal with the US company, just the body is holding me back...you'll see why 1 day lol :) Until then buying an investment property to help fund this sucker !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...