Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my suspension in my new stag is a little bouncy and clunky... nothing thats much of an issue but just trying to get an idea of what suspension mods are out there for them??? ive been told that 33gtr does NOT fit.... due to the rears being very long...

also a mate is in need of sum1 to fix/replace/service his ones in his s1 autech... cheers guys

also just jap want 299 for dump pipes and 399 for front pipe for the car?? obviously not gune go ahead with it but is this actualy a competetive price :S.... think a cat back will be settling for now!

my suspension in my new stag is a little bouncy and clunky... nothing thats much of an issue but just trying to get an idea of what suspension mods are out there for them??? ive been told that 33gtr does NOT fit.... due to the rears being very long...

also a mate is in need of sum1 to fix/replace/service his ones in his s1 autech... cheers guys

Read the first few pages of the suspension thread to get some idea. Main conclusion Bilsteins for everyone, tailored for max handling or ride, rear sway bar upgrade will improve cornering with no detriment to ride comfort and springs are a matter of choice Eibach come from the people who brought you Bilsteins, Teins can be fierce, low mileage cars try keeping your stock springs with new Bilsteins.

I've read pages and pages on them and still can't come to a definate conclusion as a lot of thing contradict what someone else says.

From what I can gather;

R33 GTR front - to handle the 4WD

R33 Gtst rear shocks will fit but need custom springs. There's also factors between eye or fork rears and the shape of the top mounts. Also apparently S15 rear shocks fit too.

Can't find too much on coilovers. I have Apexi's under mine but I can't match the part number on my rears to anything on the net.

Edited by choco
I've read pages and pages on them and still can't come to a definate conclusion as a lot of thing contradict what someone else says.

From what I can gather;

R33 GTR front - to handle the 4WD

R33 Gtst rear shocks will fit but need custom springs. There's also factors between eye or fork rears and the shape of the top mounts. Also apparently S15 rear shocks fit too.

Can't find too much on coilovers. I have Apexi's under mine but I can't match the part number on my rears to anything on the net.

interesting... its just early days and as i said im in no hurry... sway bars what fits and where to start looking???

i no the rear cradle on the 260 is larger than my old s2 stag :huh:

can any one give a deffenite answer??

I struggled to find coilovers for my stag (Type S same suspension setup as RS260) so i fitted a set of R33 GTR Greddy Type S Coilovers. The only required modification was to the rear strut tops as in the Stagea they are oval instead of round. This is because they have tried to keep them from intruding into the boot being a wagon so they made the strut top mounts smaller. Its a minor job for any good suspension shop to machine these down.

The ride was OK but it was a little soft in the back for my liking as the rear coils were progressive so I swapped the back coils out for a set of linear off the shelf Eibach items. 6.8kg from memory. Handles great now, everything is fully adjustable too which I like e.g. Spring seats, bottom mounts, damping and so on. From everything I have read on here I think the SK Bilstein kits are Standard R32 GTR front shocks and Standard R33 GTST rear shocks (Although I may be wrong) with 2 choices of spring e.g. Whiteline or Eibach.

If you have an RS260 and want coilovers I would suggest any R33 GTR coilover would fit with a slight modification to the rear strut top. Also some companies offer a choice of coils so I would suggest getting linear rate springs front and rear and either match the rates or keep them reasonably similar front to rear. My rates are quite high but i like my car firm 8kg front and 6.8 kg rears. I think the springs in the Group buy are around half that rate e.g. 4kg front and 3.2 rear. It also depends on where you live and the state of your roads, I am in melbourne and spend the majority of my time driving on city roads which although not perfect aren't too bad. I could imagine if you live in a rural area with really bumpy roads you may like to try a more compliant setup with softer springs and dampers.

I've read pages and pages on them and still can't come to a definate conclusion as a lot of thing contradict what someone else says.

From what I can gather;

R33 GTR front - to handle the 4WD

R33 Gtst rear shocks will fit but need custom springs. There's also factors between eye or fork rears and the shape of the top mounts. Also apparently S15 rear shocks fit too.

Can't find too much on coilovers. I have Apexi's under mine but I can't match the part number on my rears to anything on the net.

R32 GTR FRONT for extra travel...

tein should make coilovers or maybe see if you can test fit some 32GTR rears then get a set re-valved if they fit

group buy is closer too 3.2front 3.8rear i THINK

interesting... its just early days and as i said im in no hurry... sway bars what fits and where to start looking???

i no the rear cradle on the 260 is larger than my old s2 stag :huh:

can any one give a deffenite answer??

Hi Adam, just ducked out to the shed to check some numbers on Whiteline boxes, I bought SK's complete package for my S1 260. The numbers on the swaybar shipping boxes & therefore on my wagon are; SBS24=JAMAC (front), SBS22=JAMAC (rear) These are adjustable, 24mm solid front, 22mm solid rear. Get hold of Gary or Matt, there is a heavier swaybar setup available from them I think, 27mm front, 24mm rear (maybe)

JAMAC was Gary's business name at the time I got my gear, suspension parts being made up for JAMAC by Whiteline on consignment?

Cheers GW

I have the full SK package under mine, and am more than happy with it: height is good: low, but still practical (although with a '260, the front bar is lower than my Dayz bar, I'd think), and the ride is firm, but not uncomfortable. Can I also suggest a rear strut brace? It made the single most significant difference to handling: absolutely essential IMO...

I think some people confuse the terms "coilovers" and "coil springs". Stageas have seperate shock absorbers (dampers) and coil springs.

A change to unitary coilovers (google the term) in NZ at least, requres certification and is anyway not recommended unless you have the need (for regular adjustment -say beteen different tracks and normal road use) and the money -cheap coilovers tend to be nasty and good ones will be quite expensive.

I have the full SK package under mine, and am more than happy with it: height is good: low, but still practical (although with a '260, the front bar is lower than my Dayz bar, I'd think), and the ride is firm, but not uncomfortable. Can I also suggest a rear strut brace? It made the single most significant difference to handling: absolutely essential IMO...

What sort of rear strut brace do you have? I have noticed some Greddy ones come up on here a couple of times. I think Cusco also do them. Does it have much of an impact on your boot space? Also how does it make the car handling feel better? (Give me a really good answer please so I can justify it to the missus) :huh:

I think some people confuse the terms "coilovers" and "coil springs". Stageas have seperate shock absorbers (dampers) and coil springs.

A change to unitary coilovers (google the term) in NZ at least, requres certification and is anyway not recommended unless you have the need (for regular adjustment -say beteen different tracks and normal road use) and the money -cheap coilovers tend to be nasty and good ones will be quite expensive.

I am not quite sure what you mean here KiwiRS4T? Stageas come standard with Coilovers e.g. a Spring or Coil over a shock absorber. The only difference between your standard springs and shock absorbers and a set of aftermarket matched shocks and springs is often these come with adjustable settings e.g. spring seat height and damping.

Here is a link to all the information you could ever want regarding suspension http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_1/

So where did we end up?

33 gtr front and rear with some mods to rear?

Or 32 gtr front and 33 gts-t rear?

what sway bars?

Im interested as well as sus mods are next on my list so i can tear up the wrecks and evo's at the track.

What sort of rear strut brace do you have? I have noticed some Greddy ones come up on here a couple of times. I think Cusco also do them. Does it have much of an impact on your boot space? Also how does it make the car handling feel better? (Give me a really good answer please so I can justify it to the missus) :)

make me justify it too myself haha :)

im into the same problem with my 260RS, i need some coilovers but it's almost impossible to find to e decent price..

But does R33GTR coilovers fit with modification on the rear ones or does it need to be GTS at the rear?

yeah ok... so any gtr with mods will fit really???

im not after any thing to out there... i had gab wagon adjustable SHOCKS on my rs4 previous to this one... looked and felt good but still very practical!

what swaybars are you all rocking??

i have a cusco strut brace on the rear and it sits below the pricacy blind if you have one... doesnt change bootspace much at all but if you had the seats down it may... but its a 17mm socket and an allen key and the center bar comes out... well designed IMO...

b4 when i reversed slowly out the drive way or bumps etc u can hear stuff crecking n stuff... not as much of that

How much $$ are you planning to spend on the coilovers? If abt 2ks i think you are better off getting the SK's setup with the Eibach springs. The best of the best. And you can rebuild blistein shocks.

My spring rates are listed in my signature. They are nice and firm but not hard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
    • The fact that US/JDM plates actually fit the skyline bumpers properly is a big, big thing for me as they are the correct dimensions. Annoyingly you can't opt for a normal plate (or plate combination) in that size. You have to make up your own one, and at that point you'd still know it wasn't randomly assigned. 
    • Well, really, that's any ECU, because it's not so much the ECU that the tuner connects to, but a laptop that's connected to the ECU. You have to have the tuning software installed locally. The "remote" part is essentially just remote desktop (RDP) or VNC type access. Nevertheless, if you're looking to upgrade, then you're immediately in the Haltech/Link territory, both of which can be done by any number of competent tuners here in Oz. But without a dyno, you'll definitely also need a wideband O2 sensor fitted, and you'll probably be relying on "auto" tuning a bit, where you drive it around under various loads and then apply the corrections that the ECU learns (basically applying the fuel trims that the ECU has to do to correct the mixtures). Tuning the timing is a little harder. It can be difficult to trust the old OEM knock sensors on RBs, so it is definitely best to have someone who knows what they're listening for, with knock ears (a piezo microphone connected to the engine, and and little amp and headphones so the listener can hear the angry men with hammers who live in the engine). That is more difficult to do remotely, and I suspect the only sane way is to be quite conservative on timing. But that's OK. You're probably waaaaay better off with conservative timing where you are. What is the fuel situation? 98RON available? Or low grade jungle juice?
    • I see your point, I didn't think too deep into it, was purely focused on the price. There's no bad blood between myself and GSM, they acknowledged the price was cheaper else where and at the time couldn't match it. 
×
×
  • Create New...