Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a R32 GTR that stopped boosting today. Everything seems to be running fine, engine is smooth but no power due to no boost.

Boost gauge doesn't go past 0, there's no smoke etc, and I cant hear the turbos spool up.

Could anyone please advise what the problem might be. If there is a boost leak shouldn't I still be able to hear the turbo spool up? how do I find a boost leak.

Has my turbos crapped it?

I have N1 turbos to bolt up but don't want to do it till I get a few more parts for a major upgrade.

welcome all advice, as I'm desperate to get the car running properly again.

GTR with no boost = ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256539-gtr-not-boosting-need-help/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I have a R32 GTR that stopped boosting today. Everything seems to be running fine, engine is smooth but no power due to no boost.

Boost gauge doesn't go past 0, there's no smoke etc, and I cant hear the turbos spool up.

Could anyone please advise what the problem might be. If there is a boost leak shouldn't I still be able to hear the turbo spool up? how do I find a boost leak.

Has my turbos crapped it?

I have N1 turbos to bolt up but don't want to do it till I get a few more parts for a major upgrade.

welcome all advice, as I'm desperate to get the car running properly again.

GTR with no boost = :huh:

If the gauge goes from - up to zero, quite possibly your turbos are still working but not making positive pressure indicating a intercooler hose may have popped off, but I cannot explain why you can no longer hear the spooling if that were the case?

were you driving along giving it a hard time when suddenly things went 'pop' and thereafter no boost? or one day you started the car and no boost?

Edited by R33GTRKid

Yep my boost gauge still indicates that it's going from negative to 0 boost but not past that.

I did hear a weird noise the day before but I thought that I had run over something and it was close to home so didnt notice the difference in power. When i started it the next day and took it for a drive (uphill) this is when I noticed the lack of power.

I never drive the car really hard, and was looking to see if any vacum or boost hoses had popped off but cant see past the manifolds.

If it is a intercooler hose poping off wouldn't the car idle really badly? cause mine is idleing and running fine.

Could a wastegate problem cause this as well?

Had a conversation with Bel Garage and Advan today and they both seem to think its the ceramic wheels shattering.

How much should I be looking at in labour to get turbo's changed over? Advan want $1000 Bel Garage want $660 is this about right and can anyone recommend these guys workmanship?

If your ceramic wheels had gone, the boost gauge should be reading 0 or there abouts all the time.

When you accelerate & put the car under load where the turbos would normally spool up, does it seem to miss or sound different?? When a cooler hose popped off on my own car the other day, the idle was fairly normal, but as soon as i accelerated it was popping & farting & just generally not going at all. Do you have a factory ecu in yours?? Remember the factory ecu's have the safety feature where the car wont build any positive boost while in neutral or the clutch is in. Could it be that 1 of the sensors used to detect either of these conditions is playing up??

If the turbos were gone, you would expect smoke &/or a 0 reading on the gauge just about all the time. Personally i dont think turbos, but im not a mechanic so diagnose it & fix it however suits you best.

Good luck with it.

thanks for the reply guys.

Yep still running standard ecu at the moment, and no miss fire or popping when under load.

I guess this will speed up the process of fitting the new turbos. Just bought a set of dumps and apexi front pipes but still looking for manifolds so that I can install all at once.

Will it still be ok to drive to the work shop or am I tempting fate and could cause some bits to go through the engine?

thanks for the reply guys.

Yep still running standard ecu at the moment, and no miss fire or popping when under load.

I guess this will speed up the process of fitting the new turbos. Just bought a set of dumps and apexi front pipes but still looking for manifolds so that I can install all at once.

Will it still be ok to drive to the work shop or am I tempting fate and could cause some bits to go through the engine?

manifolds net zero gain...a waste of $$...i charge $880 so the quotes seem good.

Really? I thought the standard R32 manifolds were quite restrictive?

Please explain, as I wont bother if what your saying is correct

STD GTR manifolds are a great piece of kit...well designed and keep the heat in the gas path, hence increase gas velocity and flow. A thin walled stainless manifold allows the heat to escape and looses this advantage of super-heated high velocity hit on the turbines.

Its well proven with back to back testing that stainless manifolds do SFA when using low-mounts. A set of prepped stockers will outperform them everytime...in both performance, durability and cost.

Edited by DiRTgarage

+1 port match your standard manifolds, the restriction at the turbo flange is quite large, check the gasket marks. While not doing anything for power as every one says, it will improve your spool up response. Always a bonus on the GTR. Funny how both your turbos have gone at the exact same time?

cmoney- engine will still read vacuum if the turbos are shot. Just like an NA car.

post-48345-1234396172_thumb.jpg

If you can get 0 (atmospheric pressure) on your boost gauge, then the turbines are spoolling up in the exhaust gas stream. If BOTH ex wheels had shattered, you would be running a N/A setup, and N/A engines cannot get to atmospheric pressure (they always run in vacuum).

Somewhere in your intake system, a connection is opening up as the system hits boost, dumping the boost pressure.

It's not necessary for both turbos to blow simultaneously to make no boost.

Breaking one turbo on a parallel arrangement like the stock GTR means that one compressor no longer works;

so the air pushed by the other compressor can go:

* through the motor; or

* back out the compressor of the broken turbo

It takes the path of least resistance, so for the most part it does the latter, making your car basically N/A.

If you fully block the intake of the broken turbo properly you _should_ make boost again - exactly what boost I wouldn't know,

I never tried when one of my twins went - but you'd then have a single turbo trying to do twice as much work as it should be doing...

Regards,

Saliya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...