Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, need some help. Bought this alloy intake pipe for my R34 Gtt off ebay. Went to install it and im pretty sure its the wrong one.

Contacted the seller and he is adamant its for R34 Gtt and he has had no complaints so far selling them.

Found a picture of another one (the blue one in the picture) which looks more like the one i need as the holes are in the right position. This one is also for an R34 Gtt.

So which one is the right one?

The one i Bought

post-38400-1234347807_thumb.jpg

The other one

post-38400-1234347839_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256631-angry-and-confused/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I also once did this same thing years ago, I was stubborn, persistant and lucky, I eventually got my money back. I new the seller was also trading on SAU and the Silvia site, so I contacted the forum mods for both sites and reported him as a bad trader. I did the same on ebay. He eventually caved in and made good, but it took 8 months to do it. I sent my purchase back and asked for a refund within 1-2 weeks of receiving it, so he had my $$$ and the goods for 8 months.

I suggest you try doing the same, you will win out if you reach nuisance level. You shouldn't have to put up with shoddy goods.

Irony was that they began a group buy not long after I'd bought my reject, I would have never gone through with it if I'd known about the group buy.

Good luck.

thanks for the replies

Yeah its a chinese one. He has advertised as it fitting R33/R34 and Stagea.

But that blue one in the pic is also advertised for R33/R34. Which ones which?

Ill see if i can get my money back.

Anyone know where i can get a alloy or s/s intake pipe for R34? I asked an exhaust shop to do me one but he said it requires a fair bit of work and its better i buy a ready made one.

Edited by Jay777

Hi Gents,

It will work if you rework your exisitng BOV and PCV return pipes.

The problem with using steel for this pipe is that there are the two return pipes that go in very close to the turbo inlet, and are much much easier to make in rubber/plastic as they can be moulded.

The two pipes that go in are actually steel, so in order to make the item you bought work, you must cut back your existing steel BOV/PCV pipes and fit silicone extensions to them to hook up with the two pipes coming out the side of this.

Hence, why the silicone ones are much much easier to fit, and work just as well as the steel ones.

:)

I had a mate with the same problem as you. Bought a hard intake pipe for his S15 to replace the factory rubber item. Was advertised to be a direct replacement.

Turned out to be a direct replacement item.......once you replace other items. A few hoses and lines would need to be replaced with longer ones, and the actual pod position wasn't fantastic either.

Same deal, stubborn dealer didn't want to take it back, insisted it was a factory replacement regardless of the photo's proving him wrong. In the end he took it back and refunded. Took some doing though.

they arent a direct replacement for either the r33 or the r34. they're meant for you to make custom return lines from the BOV and the breathers. i like it because it means getting rid of the crappy metal piping for these which looks ugly. also means i can plumb in a catch can without having to plumb the return there. AND i can install a BOV somewhere else in the cooler piping and have it plumb back without having to use the standard piping.

bottom line is its not for you if you are afraid of a little customising and cleaning up your engine bay.

just thought i'd raise this question, but how did you expect a STEEL intake pipe to be a direct swap when the BOV and breather hose return pipes are also made out of metal? how did you expect them to join? or did he advertise that it was made of magical fusing metal also? i mean, you must have looked at the photo and said - hang on, that wont work no matter what, even if the fittings WERE in the right spot.

Good ole ebay strikes again with its attractive cheap price to match its poor quality.

Next time buy from trusted traders on this forum and you wont have a problem

They generally are not as cheap, but thats because the gear is decent

there was nothing wrong with the gear. the item was never going to fit no matter what. its a direct replacement in terms of where it sits and the stock air filter location. i'd like to see a steel intake pipe that still uses the stock return BOV and breather piping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...