Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Ive started getting things together for a 26/30 build, much like huddy.

so far ive got the block and head

BLOCK

rb30 series 2 block

new welsch plugs

crack tested

boared and hoaned

new bearings

reground crank

new main seal

new water pump

new h beam conrods

arp main bolts

arp rod bolts

cp forged pistons

cp piston rings

rb25 oil pump

ATI Balancer

post-49273-1234398738_thumb.jpg

HEAD

GREX 264 9.15 cams,

ported,shimmed

not 100% on springs

external oil drain

post-49273-1234398806_thumb.jpg

post-49273-1234398857_thumb.jpg

post-49273-1234398904_thumb.jpg

im going to be using a surge slotted TO4Z with .84 housing, 44mm gate,

now i want this to have some power,400kw maybe.... :banana: obviously it wont be always tuned like that..

so i know ill need to upgrade the oil pump,

is there anything else you more experienced people can help with?

cheers, ill keep progress updated

Edited by jangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256707-another-2630-build/
Share on other sites

-Sell the cams, get something more suited

-Agreed with Shane

-What manifold will you use? ebay or something like a 6 boost? (I used ebay and it was fine, BTW a 44mm gate and to4z sounds awesome when its loaded up)

-Make sure the thrust on the crank is ok and that the crank is usable, there's SO many stuffed ones out there

What car is it going into?

-Sell the cams, get something more suited

-Agreed with Shane

-What manifold will you use? ebay or something like a 6 boost? (I used ebay and it was fine, BTW a 44mm gate and to4z sounds awesome when its loaded up)

-Make sure the thrust on the crank is ok and that the crank is usable, there's SO many stuffed ones out there

What car is it going into?

Not sure why it hasnt been decked, but am going to get it done, i bought the block already built.

yeah will def have restrictors

what sort of cams would you suggest?

nah wouldnt bother putting it in just to pull it out to change oil pump, will be done before it goes in.

will be using a 6Boost manifold

what do you mean by making sure the thrust on the crank is ok?

Edited by jangles

270's or 272s' with 10.25mm lift would be a good start - or even 280's. Get as much lift as you can. Dont forget springs aswel

Yes the thrust on the crank, it will be in a lot of trouble if you have a clutch with a big clamping pressure so get a clutch that matches what you want and isnt a heap of overkill

Yes the thrust on the crank, it will be in a lot of trouble if you have a clutch with a big clamping pressure so get a clutch that matches what you want and isnt a heap of overkill

I learnt that lesson about not checking for end float :( Had to pull the engine out, cost me the crank machining, new set of mains and a new oil pump.

If it wasn't caught when it was, would have been up for a new block aswell :D

Edited by bubba
  • 2 weeks later...

Tomei oil pump is a must have for big power engines. (not that I can afford one, its just a suggestion)

You should probably start getting all the fittings and small stuff now because it can all stack up to big $$$ and you dont want to be buying crap hoses or belts because you already spent all your cash on the bigger expensive bits.

(Redline oil, bigger sump, high flow braided oil/water lines and fittings, second belt tensioner, quality silicon joiners and hose clamps, high tensile bolts for clutch, locking nuts for turbo, good turbo gaskets, high flow intake setup, breather system and catch can, etc).

Another thing you want to keep in mind is engine bay space, my RB30/26 with high mount T04z hits the cam cover on the strut brace and the turbo has 2mm to move before it hits the strut tower. This is in a R32 gts-t.

If you want 400rwkw's and you want it to last you have to be willing to spend some money.

Tomei oil pump is a must have for big power engines. (not that I can afford one, its just a suggestion)

You should probably start getting all the fittings and small stuff now because it can all stack up to big $$ and you dont want to be buying crap hoses or belts because you already spent all your cash on the bigger expensive bits.

(Redline oil, bigger sump, high flow braided oil/water lines and fittings, second belt tensioner, quality silicon joiners and hose clamps, high tensile bolts for clutch, locking nuts for turbo, good turbo gaskets, high flow intake setup, breather system and catch can, etc).

Another thing you want to keep in mind is engine bay space, my RB30/26 with high mount T04z hits the cam cover on the strut brace and the turbo has 2mm to move before it hits the strut tower. This is in a R32 gts-t.

If you want 400rwkw's and you want it to last you have to be willing to spend some money.

yeah, i know, little things do add up,

im looking at one of the external pump set ups on here at the moment,

id rather do it right the first time

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...