Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now here's the low down...ive been slowly collecting items for my r34gtt to bring it up to speed with everyone else here on this forum and start pumping some ponies out of it so to say.

thus far ive got: powerfc, bosch 040, z32 afm, splitfire coil packs,going to highflow my injectors to 600cc's, upgradting to a excedy hd sports tuff clutch (or can sum1 point me to a better one more suited for my application), hks oil cooler kit, hks exhaust cam gear,hks evc 4 electronic boost controller, exhaust temp gauge, boost gauge, oil temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, shorter shifter (btw i know it wont give it more kw) ;0P (ENGINE IS STANDARD INTERNALLY)

now at the moment ive only got bolted on only a large front mount intercooler and trust ti (titanium exhaust) otherwise all the parts listed above have no been installed and are just laying around waiting for me to get the turbo (ENGINE IS STANDARD INTERNALLY) and no boost has been put in other then standard factory boost it has top compression and has no faults with only 80,000k's

now im looking for no more then 290rwkw as from what ive read it wont be healthy for too long if i go further...plus its going to street driven plus the odd day on the track so im aiming for MINIMAL LAG AND MORE IMPORTANTLY RELIABILITY and POWER as i'd like to keep the car for a while and just have it as my weekender,

now from what i read and copious amounts of research i have come down to these 2 internally gated turbo options.

now its time to break the bank and buy the heart of the power my choices are between HKS 3037 GTRS KIT or the HKS 2835 PROS KIT?????????????

now can all you gurus tell me which you believe to suit my project the best.

(and no im not looking to rebuild the engine in the future to be honest, just enjoy the power and make sure its reliable)

"ALSO CAN SOMEONE RECOMMEND ME TO A SUITABLE TUNER IN SYDNEY"

BTW IM PERSONALLY SWAYING TO THE 2835 PRO S KIT...FOR THE DUMP AND LOWER BOOST TO HIGHER POWER INPUT.

THANKS A MILLION!

Bass.

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline

Bass , not sure about the "3037 GTRS" terminology .

The GT2835 and GT3037 Pro S turbos are good bolt on turbos for RB25 DETs , probably the best turbine housing and dump pipe you'll find for this frame size in the Jap aftermarket .

You can also buy in Garrett form a GT3076R turbo with a propper GT30 integral waste gate turbine housing but you have to chase up dump pipes and water/oil plumbing yourself if you go that way .

If you really want HKS and the integral wastegate then it'll have to be the GT3037 Pro S with the larger 0.87 A/R turbine housing option for your power ask .

I think the 0.87 GT2835 Pro S would be nicer most of the time on a street car .

Also BTW you don't really need 290 RWKW to keep up here , you can't out run radio waves so the wallopers will get you if use that sort of power frequently on the street .

I think Brett was right when he said most that aren't used to it auto defacate with 240+ RWKW on the street .

My 2c cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
now its time to break the bank and buy the heart of the power my choices are between HKS 3037 GTRS KIT or the HKS 2835 PROS KIT?????????????

You are confusing yourself with two different turbos, the HKS 3037 and HKS GT-RS are different turbos.

excuse me i meant hks gtrs and hks 2835 pro s

also "ryan1600" the evc 4 is great and holds boost like a dream and brings it on just right...also very easy to tune.

excuse me i meant hks gtrs and hks 2835 pro s

also "ryan1600" the evc 4 is great and holds boost like a dream and brings it on just right...also very easy to tune.

sweet, could you PM me a photo of your solenoid setup if its not too much trouble? and did you remove the standard restrictor from the lines?

ya know what i dont have any photos unfortunately..but i do have the pdf file for set up etc...i used the restrictors but they were just mini fuel filters...its really just to keep debree out of the stepper motor.

out of the two the HKS2835ProS is the better turbo for your aims but it sure is expensive compared to some locally sourced options that will reach your target.

ps. the exhaust cam gear will probably net you 0kw (on an RB25DET Neo). sell and spend your money on something else.

Edited by wolverine

i have a 2835 pro s on an unopened 25...

the ex cam gear will actually lose you top end KW, but in exchange for better response...

i have 265rwkw with stock like turbo response

is that on a R33 RB25DET or RB25DET Neo?

with an exhaust cam gear on my R33 (at or around 4 deg retarded) there is more mid and top (on my car) and certainly worthwhile trying cam gear changes when you have some dyno time.

for this thread we are talking RB25DET Neo. cam gear changes were a step backward on the S2 Stagea. the same as many other people have found here. there is some adjustment on the backside of the factory cam gear already btw but you need to take the gear off each time to change it.

Bass Junky has a good thread devoted to it, mind you that was a while ago so it may not have been read by more recent SAU'ers.

Edited by wolverine

it can, if you want to set it up that way... you can bring the whole powerband down a few hundred RPM...

a 2835 pro s will still be making power @ 8k, so there's no real loss, except for dyno queen points....

i'd rather have 260rwkw from 3k-7k than 270rwkw from 4k-7k (example only)

i get just under 4000 revs of full boost with the rev limit @ 7100

in a street car i want response, not top end power which i why i went for an ex cam gear (greddy rb26 item) and stock cams. (transient response)

this is in a S1 33 rb25, but my mate has the exact same results on a NEO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
    • Hi all,I already introduced myself in the Victoria section, but only saw this section now lol XD New to forums and new to skylines. Hoping to buy my new skyline within October
×
×
  • Create New...