Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Yesterday, for some reason, the car heated to the 2nd last line on the factory gauge.

Popped the bonnet to see, overflow bottle was getting some in there, bubbling.

Had a few bottles of water, put some of that into the overflow. It cooled down when i started it back up :S

Regardless, i think its time to check it all and get some new radiator coolant, haven't done it since the upgrade of it. Year ago. (how often does it require changing)

What coolant am i looking for? Do i require something special? Here in Brisbane Queensland, winter doesn't get cold, summer hits the 30-35 on average.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. I did a quick search, didn't find much coolant related things. Link me to info if someone knows where it is. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257082-the-goods-on-radiator-coolant/
Share on other sites

The non-glycol surfectant based coolants are supposed to cool better, but dont have anti-freeze and can stain paint. I dont supposed you'll be too worried about the anti-freeze.......Redline Water Wetter is one, and I think Penrite SIN racing coolant is another

Thanks for that. Do Autobarn/supercheap carry them?

No requirement for anti-freeze.

Does the overflow bottle need to be topped up with the coolant?

Also, is it just the a matter of drain and then top up? Or is there a full process?

Thanks for that. Do Autobarn/supercheap carry them?

No requirement for anti-freeze.

Does the overflow bottle need to be topped up with the coolant?

Also, is it just the a matter of drain and then top up? Or is there a full process?

If you want to do it properly there is a lengthly process...

Drain the radiator as per normal, and theres a bolt on the block around the turbo area you can undo to drain the block too.

Some pull the thermostat out and stick a hose in there to flush all the old coolant out too.

Then put your new coolant in and top up with water.. bleed the system as per normal.

Oh and Re. the overflow, generally i only put water in mine and watch it slowly change colour to the coolant colour as it mixes. That way i know my radiator cap is working :laugh:

Edited by gotRICE?
If you want to do it properly there is a lengthly process...

Drain the radiator as per normal, and theres a bolt on the block around the turbo area you can undo to drain the block too.

Some pull the thermostat out and stick a hose in there to flush all the old coolant out too.

Then put your new coolant in and top up with water.. bleed the system as per normal.

Umm,

I usually go a little further, I dont worry about the bolt on the block until it's bleed time, as the water still flows out of the block if you take the radiator cap off.

Dont forget that there is coolant in the heater pipes, so you need to flush this as well.

Last flush I did, I pulled the lower plug, shoved a hose in the top of the radiator, started the water pouring, then started the engine, turned the heater to maximum, and left both going for 30 minutes. As soon as the heater was on, the water flowing out of the radiator changed from clear to green again, so it opened the heater pipes and flushed the heater as well.

After 30 minutes, I let the normal water flow out, replaced the lower bung, and filled the system with coolant, bled the system and re-capped the radiator.

I also flushed, emptied and filled the overflow with fresh coolant, because the radiator sometimes drinks from the overflow as well.

Took the car for a drive with the heater on maximum, until it started to blow warm air into the car, then parked the car back at home and left it sit.

Next morning, I cracked the top screw, refilled the coolant, until it came out the screw, and then locked the screw off and she is all done.

Dont do half a job and change the coolant in the block and radiator, do the full job change the coolant in the heater pipes as well.

B.

  • 4 weeks later...
man that goes without saying. If you drain it with the heater on hot it will drain regardless as the pipes enter lower than the core.

yeah mate thats right, best way to do it is turn ur heater on before u turn the motor off. in the case of my car (33) there is a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator and on the bottom of the block. drain these and flush thru with water until it runs clear. i also pulled a heater hose of and flushed thru the heater core and back out thru the motor. make sure u get an airline and blow as much water out as possible after flushing so u can get as much coolant in as possible. after that it was just a case of filling and then running it till its hot with a few stops to let air out the bleed screw. just make sure that the heater goes hot in the car and that both radiator hoses are hot so u know the coolant is flowing around and thermostat is open etc. keep bleeding until all the air is out and throw ur cap back on.

Your main problem is that your car overheated !

Old coolant will not make a big difference to cooling capacity BUT it will eventually corrode your cooling system. A process that is not fixed easily by changing coolants.

Your thermostat might be busted - you should get a new one anyway since they are about $70 only. Then change coolant to surfactant based as mentioned and maybe add a touch of glycol.

Having less glycol will increase the cooling capacity.

If this doesn't work it's time for a larger radiator.

Your main problem is that your car overheated !

Old coolant will not make a big difference to cooling capacity BUT it will eventually corrode your cooling system. A process that is not fixed easily by changing coolants.

Your thermostat might be busted - you should get a new one anyway since they are about $70 only. Then change coolant to surfactant based as mentioned and maybe add a touch of glycol.

Having less glycol will increase the cooling capacity.

If this doesn't work it's time for a larger radiator.

I agree with ^^^. Coolant prol won't help you much.

If you like, I can offer a suggested course of action since I have a pre-written procedure for this scenario :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...