Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the go for twin plates for FJ? New ones availible?

Umm i happened to stumble across mine whilst cruising round on FJ20.com..very lucky!! Managed to get OS Gieken with flywheel so pretty cheering!

Yeah i watched u take off the other sat Crimmo and the subframe must been close to hitting the deck son..Looks cool but wouldn't really be good i dun think!! :wavey:

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

has anyone put in a autometer tahco in before? its just i'm having trouble getting a signal from the rb20 ECU, i've wired it up correctly but when the ecu tacho wire is connected,regaurdless of engine rpm, the tacho will go to 3000rpm and stay there. i've been told that the rb20 ecu signal is 8volts and the tacho requires 12volt but looking for advice from someone who has put one in themselves!! cheers... matt..

Someone!!!! please enlighten me, WHY??? would anyone want to fit an autometer tacho, when the stock one goes to 9000 rpm and can easily be converted to suit 6 cylinders and fits neatly in the dash instrument cluster.

WHY??? do you want a monster ugly thing sitting on top of the dash.

Other than the stock cluster that includes 260K Speedo, 9G tacho, volt, fuel, oil pressure & water temp gauges, I am fitting 2 extra gauges into the console, those being boost & oil temp.

Why you want more?

Id love to know how to hook up the standard tacho to the RB20... :starwars:

Im looking for a muffler, anyone know of something for sale that works well and is cheap, 2nd hand or new... at the moment im runnin 4" from the turbo into 3" all the way to the back where instead of a rear muffler, i have a resinator, its a tad too loud

cheers :stupid:

been looking at clutches also, as mine just packed up, got quoted $750 for a 5puk sprung centre, ceramic, 1050kg pressure plate from adelaide clutch service/extreeme clutches, thats brand new, and i rung again and asked for the price to rebuild that clutch and they said $640!!

A quick question for all people with FJ20DET powered DR30's.

The L20ET 6 cyl turbo is identical to look at in every way to that fitted to an FJ20DET, but the FJ has a 0.68 rear housing as opposed to the L20 0.37.

Q: How much boost will the FJ turbo take before it breaks???

Id love to know how to hook up the standard tacho to the RB20... :starwars:

Im looking for a muffler, anyone know of something for sale that works well and is cheap, 2nd hand or new... at the moment im runnin 4" from the turbo into 3" all the way to the back where instead of a rear muffler, i have a resinator, its a tad too loud  

cheers :stupid:

been looking at clutches also, as mine just packed up, got quoted $750 for a 5puk sprung centre, ceramic, 1050kg pressure plate from adelaide clutch service/extreeme clutches, thats brand new, and i rung again and asked for the price to rebuild that clutch and they said $640!!

i got told 450 for a 1500kg clutch. not sure of the puks, centre etc..

from jap tech or something. the guys thats used to be Import Dismantlers

Id love to know how to hook up the standard tacho to the RB20... :starwars:

Im looking for a muffler, anyone know of something for sale that works well and is cheap, 2nd hand or new... at the moment im runnin 4" from the turbo into 3" all the way to the back where instead of a rear muffler, i have a resinator, its a tad too loud  

cheers :stupid:

been looking at clutches also, as mine just packed up, got quoted $750 for a 5puk sprung centre, ceramic, 1050kg pressure plate from adelaide clutch service/extreeme clutches, thats brand new, and i rung again and asked for the price to rebuild that clutch and they said $640!!

I took my cluster to an Auto Instrument Repairer in Camden NSW and he modified the 9G 4 cyl tacho, to work as for 6 cyl, don't know what he did, but I saw it working on the bench. To get it working with an RB, my sparky says it will be no problem, so maybe the answer is a trick auto sparky and not D. I. Y.

As for exhaust/mufflers, plenty of S/S canons on ebay for about $120/$150.00.

But don't you have your system arse up? gases as they cool, expand and therefore need more space to flow at the same rate.

You have a 4 inch dump, going into a 3 inch system????? shouldn't it be the other way around.

I have for my big banger, a 3 inch dump, 1.75 inch from ext gate, feeding into a 3.5 inch front pipe, cat and back to a S/S rear muffler, 3.5 inch inlet and 2 x 3 inch outlet, as I want it to at least look a little stock from the rear.

Don't want to tell everyone in advance that they are about to be blown off by a 20 year old fossil. That may be more embarrassment than they could cope with.

Clutches: UAS has a 6 puk with 40% extra claping pressure they claim, will hold onto 300 rwkw and still be driver friendly for $695.00 exchange, with postage it may be the same as you have, but might be a little cheaper, but maybe better.

My set up will cost you some dollars, but in the end, a far better system. I have a billet steel flywheel (Castlemaine Rod Shop) $550.00, designed for 10.5 inch VL Turbo clutch (far cry from 9 inch Skyline) using a full KEVLAR faced plate and 1500kg diaphram in the pressure plate. Will be VERY driver friendly and hold over 300 rwkw.

A friend has a similar set up in his R33 GTR in QLD and has never had a problem holding his 300+rwkw. :ghost:

As for getting them to fit mate, speak with Crimmo he's done it on his car and will be something that i will be looking at doing on mine very soon!!  As for the R33 front's fitting in the rears, they just bolt up!!

Yeah im good mate, got a twin plate for the DR now, just waiting for that to arrive..Getting bonnet in week or two so gonna go look for some decent panels/bumper and away we go..Luckily i took the skirts off the front guards before the car went to the crash shop, so all i'll be missing is the front skirt..Easy as!!  Cars slowly coming together hehe!!

Hows your bus coming along??

33 front coilovers i can sort without a problem to go in the back

whats the amount of fiddling required for s13 fronts to go in the front? i really need to know exactly what is needed to make them fit

got my first look at my "brakes" yesterday - they are rusted to death so i really need this. 33 4 spots in the rear attached to the suspension and s13 ones in the front would be awesome!

as for my bus

hr30.JPG

painted without a polish and with some na 33 rims

off to workshop tomorrow!

Someone!!!! please enlighten me, WHY??? would anyone want to fit an autometer tacho, when the stock one goes to 9000 rpm and can easily be converted to suit 6 cylinders and fits neatly in the dash instrument cluster.

WHY??? do you want a monster ugly thing sitting on top of the dash.

Other than the stock cluster that includes 260K Speedo, 9G tacho, volt, fuel, oil pressure & water temp gauges, I am fitting 2 extra gauges into the console, those being boost & oil temp.

Why you want more?

but it goes so well with the PRo comp extra lite boost, oil and water temp gauges i put in at the same time!!

P.s. i've had to replace the instrument cluster with the one from the mr30 as the other one was rooted, the spring for the speedo was all twisted and beyond help, swapped it for the mr30 which also went to 200km not 180km. plus later i will use a piVoT speed meter!

man that front is high!!!!!!!!!!, does anyoine know how low the fornt can be lowerd with out going coilovers. ive got cobra lows in there now. and the front didnt drop one bit :D well 18 year old springs compressed :).

Dude, it has no engine in it so theres no weight pushing it down.......

ive got 40mm strut spacers and lowered springs in the front of my MR and although it still has guard clearance (2 fingers) its pretty damn low, i was concidering going lower but if i get ths front spoiler i don't want to be a street sweeper

man that front is high!!!!!!!!!!, does anyoine know how low the fornt can be lowerd with out going coilovers. ive got cobra lows in there now. and the front didnt drop one bit :D well 18 year old springs compressed :).

The factory minimum rad clearance is 160mm.

So! theoretically 60mm is as low as you can go, but that is at DRY weight. NO fuel, oil, water etc, etc and standard exaust.

If you have a performance upgrade exhaust, that could create 100mm minimum ground clearance problems.

My MR30 hatch has 40mm lowered rear and 50mm lowered fronts and that is still legal. Looks as low as, but still has guard clearance. Due to the spring rates and Koni dampers, there isn't a lot of suspension travel anyway.

Hope this helps. :ghost:

The factory minimum rad clearance is 160mm.

So! theoretically 60mm is as low as you can go, but that is at DRY weight. NO fuel, oil, water etc, etc and standard exaust.

If you have a performance upgrade exhaust, that could create 100mm minimum ground clearance problems.

My MR30 hatch has 40mm lowered rear and 50mm lowered fronts and that is still legal. Looks as low as, but still has guard clearance. Due to the spring rates and Koni dampers, there isn't a lot of suspension travel anyway.

Hope this helps. :ghost:

i've just put 225/50/15 tryes on the rear of my car and that has lowered it by 10mm 205/55/15 at the front which lowered it by7-8mm! it all adds up

i've just put 225/50/15 tryes on the rear of my car and that has lowered it by 10mm 205/55/15 at the front which lowered it by7-8mm! it all adds up

Geez Matt,

You must love wasting money, if you have got that much the combo switch is now $1000.00 LOL.

Factory fitted tyres are 205/60 x 15 .. inflated OD 625mm, dynamic radius 304mm, revs per km 524 and recommended rim is 6, but can go on 5.5 - 7.5, my optimum choice is 6.5.

The tyres you have just fitted 225/50 x 15????

inflated OD 604mm & dynamic radius 293, revs per km 543 and recommended rim is 7, but is acceptable on 6 - 8.

NO WONDER YOU JUST LOWERED IT 10mm!!!! you have also stuffed the speedo accuracy by possibly as much as 10 - 20 kph.

If you had to stay with 15's 205/60 was your only correct option, if you want wider 16's are the go and 245/45 are perfect in all respects or another alternative is 225/50 rear & 205/55 front, all similar spec to 205/60 x 15.

Good luck with the law!!!! :ghost:

how did you lower it? with just shocks and springs. if so how did you over come with the limiting factor of shock travel in the front. mine has been lowerd approx 30mm. compared to a factory paul newman.

now i cannot go any lower without limiting the shock travel. e.g risking the fact of bottoming out, unless someone knows how low it can go. i have aprox 7-10cm of travel left in my shock. and thats just hitting replaced. "larger" bump stops.

how did you lower it? with just shocks and springs. if so how did you over come with the limiting factor of shock travel in the front. mine has been lowerd approx 30mm. compared to a factory paul newman.  

now i cannot go any lower without limiting the shock travel. e.g risking the fact of bottoming out, unless someone knows how low it can go. i have aprox 7-10cm of travel left in my shock. and  thats just hitting replaced. "larger" bump stops.

The travels right, but I have put 250 lb/inch front springs with Koni dampers and I doubt wether I will get that much travel with these springs. An upgrade replacement 24mm sway bar has been added for good measure.

Considering standard front springs are 108 lb/inch, and mine are an increase of over 200%, I can't see a problem unless you go looking for the deepest of pot holes.

My HR30 Paul Newman has JIC Coilovers in all corners with even heavier springs and sway bars.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...