Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, but people keep throwing up 200hp figures for the Paul Newman which is bs... if that has 200hp my fj20 must have 300hp lol

Careful Adam,

You might be accused of being blasfamous, after all, my Paul Newman has a lot more than 200. LOL

Adam,

I think they quick, just depends on the comparison.

My mates in Adelaide tell me there is a Paul Newman down there, that after caning it's ass off, it does 15's at the 1/4.

Hold that thought for a moment, 15.??? second 1/4 time and have some consideration for our own aussie muscle. The 5.7 litre Monaro only manages 17's for the 1/4, off the shelf.

Compared to that! the Paul Newman is pretty quick eh!!!

Sams IS the Adelaide Paul Newman, its standard apart from a turbo that is apparently a "triple hybrid", filter and exhaust. Its bloody clean though, and it sounds sweet, but its slow. Sam reckoned that my car was noticably faster when he went in it... which is when it had a huge boost leak. And now that mine doesnt have a leak, its much quicker

How many are there in Australia now? When Ivan was advertising his he said there was only three... his, Pauls (now Sams) and another one that was in either Sydney or Melbourne

I still doubt that the Newmans had 200hp standard, or even much more than 145.

Shit, my Charade GTti must have been a monster... stock except for the exhaust it ran a 16.7 (granny launched... just drove it normally (ie sloooowly) off the line) but at 85mph lol

BTW Sam lives in the house behind mine :D

Sams IS the Adelaide Paul Newman, its standard apart from a turbo that is apparently a "triple hybrid", filter and exhaust.  Its bloody clean though, and it sounds sweet, but its slow.  Sam reckoned that my car was noticably faster when he went in it... which is when it had a huge boost leak.  And now that mine doesnt have a leak, its much quicker

How many are there in Australia now?  When Ivan was advertising his he said there was only three... his, Pauls (now Sams) and another one that was in either Sydney or Melbourne

I still doubt that the Newmans had 200hp standard, or even much more than 145.

Shit, my Charade GTti must have been a monster... stock except for the exhaust it ran a 16.7 (granny launched... just drove it normally (ie sloooowly) off the line) but at 85mph lol

BTW Sam lives in the house behind mine :D

i think you'll find that the ones ghostrider and i are talking of are not STANDARD and you are on the mark with your stock power figures give or take! :D

you might be able to answer a question though! were the paul neumans released in 2 or 4 door version as my mates is a 4 door and he seem to think they were only ever released in the 4 door version??

hey all...i just bought a r30 hatch for $200....im gunna stick the motor/box(5speed) into my 1.2litre 2wd hilux.......can the ecu be modded or do i have to buy an aftermarket computer? i want to put headers and a cam in it.....btw the motor and box are A1

oh....bummer...how far can u go with these motors before needing to change the ecu? im guessing head work and pipes is about it?

if anyone read the ZOOM engine review then according to them the ECU can be played with?? but i think the problen is finding someone that has bothered with these engines here in OZ.

the trouble with the vane airflow meters, well in my mates case was that they flip wide open under boost and go to 9:1 A/F ratio.

thats why you see so many pulsar Et's blowing chaff

i think from memory you can basically adjust idle, mid and high mixtures

took my car to work with me on saturday, i know the trouble i could have been in, 40k round trip, all and all she went like a dream, one miner problem, no indicators!! it was something i had to do and was not disapointed!!

Fun arent they :)

I drive mine the looooong way to uni, go up through and across the hills instead of just cutting across town.. only takes 5 minutes longer, and its a hell of a lot more fun :evil

the thing is with mine its unregistered and i'm running an rb20det so its fun and illegal!! :sadam:
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...