Hks Low Mount Mainfold And Turbo

[Psymon]

I have a HKS cast low mount exhaust manifold and hks t300s turbo that i'm trying to fit on my RB20DET at the moment but seem to be having trouble. The turbo is fouling on the engine mount.

Has anyone else used a setup like this on an RB20? The setup originally came from an RB25DET in an R32 (BHDaves car) so i assumed i should have been able to put it on without too many dramas?

I was trying to put the turbo and manifold in as one piece to make things easier, do i have to put the manifold on and then bolt the turbo up? It didn't seem like that would have made it any easier but i dunno...

[1400r]

dremel been there done that twice now with hks cast manifolds

must be decent sized turbo i.e to4r etc

[Psymon]

Yeah... physically the turbo is around the same size as a 3576r i think...

So when you say dremel... am i just dremelling the parts of engine mount that are in the way? How much has to be cut out?

[MrNeil]

dremel been there done that twice now with hks cast manifolds

must be decent sized turbo i.e to4r etc

the front housing is about the same size as my 35r's .70

Do you just dremel the useless looking alloy bit or the actual mount? looks like its gonna be a task putting some piping on the 4" intake where its sitting..

[Swiper the Fox]

have you tried spining the housing around on the core to locate it in a better posi?

[Psymon]

Yeah i had a go of that this afternoon. I only tried a couple of positions and it helped a little, but not enough.

[R31Nismoid]

Depends what mounts he was using, i know RB25 and RB26 mounts are interchangable, but not actually the same as my RB26 now sits very low in my engine bay using 26 mounts as opposed to my RB25 using 25 mounts

Maybe its a sign you shouldnt put a T300 on a RB20?

[badhairdave]

The engine side mount itself only needed a couple of taps with a hammer to clear the housing. The rubber bit needed the heat shield (?) removed and there's a fairly chunky bit of metal that wraps around from the base up the side that doesn't attach to anything, that has to be ground off. And on the cross member side just grind/bash away until it clears.

I used rb20 mounts

And you do need to install the turbo on the car unfortunately, though i did figure out when a stud stripped on the turbo/manifold flange that if i undid the engine mounts and lifted the engine up and toward the drivers side there was just enough room to get it out while bolted together and back in too, but not an easy task.

The comp housing was in about the best position to clear the manifold and have room to get the outlet pipe connected. If you rotate it too much you'll run into issues with melting silicone or the other way hitting body work.

Send me a pm, I can give you a couple of photos, they aren't great as i had a camera phone in bad light but may help. I can take some new photos of the cross member butchery and the engine mount with bend too.

Cheers

Dave

[tridentt150v]

RB25, HKS cast low mount with a GT3076 WG and I had to grind away the heat sheild and part of the metal that the rubber mount is bounded to. You can't get away without doing it unless you have an RB30, then the extra 38mm lifts the turbo up enough to clear it.

I used a 4" angle grinder with a s/s cutting blade [they are super thin 1-1.5mm]. I finished it off with a sanding disc on the 4". Make sure you cover everything up real good because rubber and filings dust goes everywhere. Blow it all down when your finished [if you have a compressor].

Don't be fooled into thinking that you have to cut the side away, its more towards the passenger rear than the side.