Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Top tank looks to be leaking, cracked or a seal-unknown as yet... am i better off getting a 300$ alloy rad? does this affect the auto trans as it will no longer be running thru the rad?

as i have been quoted more for a new top tank, seal and a cleanout than a JJR GTST alloy rad will cost.

standard trans cooler, but i think it just runs thru the rad to warm it up?

-Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/
Share on other sites

Top tank looks to be leaking, cracked or a seal-unknown as yet... am i better off getting a 300$ alloy rad? does this affect the auto trans as it will no longer be running thru the rad?

as i have been quoted more for a new top tank, seal and a cleanout than a JJR GTST alloy rad will cost.

standard trans cooler, but i think it just runs thru the rad to warm it up?

-Ryan

Buy a second hand radiator from a stagea, I happen to know were to get one :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4436829
Share on other sites

Top tank looks to be leaking, cracked or a seal-unknown as yet... am i better off getting a 300$ alloy rad? does this affect the auto trans as it will no longer be running thru the rad?

as i have been quoted more for a new top tank, seal and a cleanout than a JJR GTST alloy rad will cost.

standard trans cooler, but i think it just runs thru the rad to warm it up?

-Ryan

Your radiator place should be able to supply a bigger capacity radiator which has connections for the auto fluid. The point of going through the radiator is to bring it up to operating temp quicker - most trips are short ones.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4437558
Share on other sites

Your radiator place should be able to supply a bigger capacity radiator which has connections for the auto fluid. The point of going through the radiator is to bring it up to operating temp quicker - most trips are short ones.

that is what i was afraid of.

i've had enough, gonna try and get a credit card, fix all the small shit, and get another datto or something and pay off the loan with the difference... rare cars shit me, i was quoted 400+ IFF they can find a top tank

other idea is run a reco'd r33 gtst auto rad, think they are 10mm thicker

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4437957
Share on other sites

The rad. i bought was a replacement to suit a stagea and the bonus was it is 25mm compared to std 16mm. It was 'brand new' at $450.00, alu. core. I had to sell my little left finger to pay for it. I have used rad. socks for years now. I took sock out today to see what it had caught. It had a heap of head gasket i had scraped and lost into water jacket plus some machining swarf. It came with rad. Prior post on head gasket story.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4438512
Share on other sites

The rad. i bought was a replacement to suit a stagea and the bonus was it is 25mm compared to std 16mm. It was 'brand new' at $450.00, alu. core. I had to sell my little left finger to pay for it. I have used rad. socks for years now. I took sock out today to see what it had caught. It had a heap of head gasket i had scraped and lost into water jacket plus some machining swarf. It came with rad. Prior post on head gasket story.

ouch

but not much more than i was estimated by a rad guy... where did you get it from? gen nissan with the auto hose thingo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4438528
Share on other sites

Hope the half a job doesn't let you down. Been down that road a couple of times and found its not worth the money and time.

if it lasts me two months(when jayrad will have units in stock), i will be happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4448096
Share on other sites

Did you fit a 'Radiator Sock' when you put rad. back in? They save alot rubbish blocking rad.

crap nope, care to elaborate?

apparently the guy has bench and lab tested a LOT of coolants, and uses an organic(non-glycol) one, as it doesnt block the rad and has light cleaning agents in it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257907-radiator-woes/#findComment-4451558
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...