Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i always though my gearbox was on the way out

but i kinda sorta missed second gear and got a bit of a crunch out of it and then it kinda went:

bang grind grind grind clunck crack....

not really in that order but yeah ive now got no second gear............. oops.

i can hear the pieces rattling round in there but all other gears work ok

Any suggestions? ive got the r32 gtst 2.0lt 260 rwkw

is the 32 gtr box any good and does it fit up to the 2.0lt easily with out too much expense?

also anyone ever done a six speed box from a 34 to a 32? i would love an extra gear while im at it.

man im bleeding about this my credit card is already maxed out

just chuck another rb20 box in untill u can afford rb25 box much more exe and much stronger and bigger

u will need to do g box mount new tail shaft and speedo drive with 25 box

so save ur pennies

ive just been quoted $2550 from type M imports

for a Gtr box totaly reconditioned and converted for the rb20

Supplied and fitted drive in drive out. with tail shaft done too

Does that sound ok for price?

If you can find a RB20 box from a std car you should be able to get some decent life out of it. Use god oil and shift sensibly and they can last a long time. My box has 195,000kms on it and is still alive as mostly refrain from heavy shifting

But if the dollars are there then any RB25 / GTR gearbox install is going to cost at least $2500 including box so the quote seems fair, if not borderline pretty cheap

Cost me nearly 2.5k just in parts to put a 25t box in, and a GTR box is pretty much the same as a 25t box but they cut the transfer case off. Good price but I guess that's probably because GTR boxes can be had for a lot cheaper.

im going to make a few more phone calls on monday

ive got a mate that can get me a gtr box or rb25 box second hand from an importer for $1100

i want to be able to shift fast and hard sometimes thats the whole point of my car

and thats how i broke this one. i get excited sometimes :P

so rb20 box is out of the question

the gtr box is reconditioned with a conversion to fit up to the rb20 and he wants $1750 for just the box and he will fit it for $2550 complete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...