Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was tossing up buying these or sparco pins when I first got my carbon bonnet on... I went the pins and slightly regret my decision :)

Oh well, that's laziness for you. Also, the guys at Revolution weren't 100% positive that I could line them up on the bonnet to sit perfectly flush but they hasn't been around that long at the time. Looks like they can be.

Looks good guys, but at what point doesnt the standard bonnet latch work?

Hi Mick, there's no problem with the factory catch at all mate.

I went with these for a couple of reasons.

1. I went to a GTR bonnet so rather than get the GTR catch panel or modify my original I got rid of the catch panel, catch, and cable alltogether. All that weighed about 3.7kg. Also aids in airflow to the radiator.

2. With the cage in my car it was very hard to pull the bonnet cable, so now the service crew can just lift it without me having to unbuckle and throw my neck out.

Ok, then where is the quickest and easiest pace to get them. Better shoot them off to the panel beater before the bonnet gets sprayed. Stuart?

They may look ok on my car since i am doing the fan boy black and silver thing :)

I did mine after the bonnet was sprayed Roy, no big deal either way.

Here's Stu's direct email; [email protected] , he could post them wherever mate. If you're talking to Russ again, maybe ask him if he has any spare sets, I remember he mentioned that a while back.

  • 2 months later...

Picked my car up today after getting the aerocatches fitted.

With the standard airbox it was a bastard of a job apparently. Thanks to Mick at Micolour it looks like a very neat job. It's the first time I've been there, he certainly knows his stuff. I'm sure I'll be back for some more car botox in the future.

post-21259-1243260939_thumb.jpg post-21259-1243261031_thumb.jpg post-21259-1243260999_thumb.jpg post-21259-1243261058_thumb.jpg

post-21259-1243261089_thumb.jpg post-21259-1243261117_thumb.jpg post-21259-1243261140_thumb.jpg

nice. What type/brand of bonnet is that Andrew? it's nice looking. :laugh:

It's a Varis "cooling bonnet" - I love engrish. www.varis.co.jp

Got it new through the Yahoo auctions at great expense (:banana: 60yen). The reason I chose it was because it has a neat little cover for the vent on the inside of the bonnet for when it rains.

Are bonnet pins necessary on a carbon fibre bonnet? I assume it's fine as is for road use, but i'm wondering about track day speeds if the wind can get under it and start flapping it around?

thanks mate.

and yes bonnet pins are very much a good idea on a carbon bonnet as they can and do flex when air gets underneath. even if they work with the factory latch at high speed air can get under and pull it out, or even break part of the bonnet so it's a much better idea to have it fixed at each side as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...