Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How hard is it to convert Auto to Man? im happy with the 5 speed Auto for my needs me just wondering

well...it all starts off with you purchasing a manual gearbox..............(wink wink)

Manual to Auto - definately impractical and would only devalue your car instantly. Like others have said, even if you were successful, it will not look and feel like an original auto IMO and cost wise just does not make sense.

If you were seriously considering auto, then sell your manual and buy an auto. Buy low, sell high!

It'd be a pain in the arse. All the electronics are specific to the trans (since the ECU controls so much of it).

For the amount of effort it'd cost to get it running almost properly, you may as well have bought a car with the right transmission.

well...it all starts off with you purchasing a manual gearbox..............(wink wink)

Well i know that part, I had a friend who converted his auto CA18 sil to a Man, but was wondering with the V35 being somewhat of a more advanced car if it would be a super hass to do

need box, slave cylinder, pedal, center consol. Would the Auto dash still work? I guess things like VDC would stop working unless there was an ECU swap or something

As for going the other way man to auto... U planning on building the worlds 1st 10 sec drag V35 :thumbsup:

Edited by 180 wanabe
Manual to Auto - definately impractical and would only devalue your car instantly.

If you were seriously considering auto, then sell your manual and buy an auto. Buy low, sell high!

De-value? I'm still amazed at current pricing trends given Redbook has the same value for Man/Auto and it's currently a buyers market.

Best idea is buy a newer model in an auto. 03MT = 05AT in value going by carsales( give or take a few bob)

Spit, what is your reason for needing an auto? Convenience in peak hour commuting etc?

Or a better option for the ¼ :thumbsup:

either way get a front cut and just sell the motor on

Edited by mosoto

lucky...fire seems controlled now.

ok...yeah, seems like rather a silly idea...I understand the concepts of looms and control devices ....just wanted to know if it's been done before.

I love my car..it's handling, braking and motor performance are just beautiful..not to mention the looks of the thing...it's just that I think that the box is disgusting.

It's going back in next Monday (Import dealer), they're going to play with oil aditives (waste of time, in this case, if you ask me), then they'll happilly change the box completely over if there has been no benefit....(they've already re-built mine).

Oh..btw..is anyone interested in a properly manufactured light flywheel for a V35??...(not modified, it's a proper one!)...I know someone who has access to one...

....PM me...and I'll give the flywheel owner's details, then you can talk...Melbourne.

Spit, what is your reason for needing an auto? Convenience in peak hour commuting etc?

Or a better option for the ¼ :D

either way get a front cut and just sell the motor on

Hi mst...

I just think that an auto (5 speeder) would've suited this car more......this frustrated feeling I have is like having an ace looking girlfriend, that just won't go dow........anyways...

Cheers.

lucky...fire seems controlled now.

ok...yeah, seems like rather a silly idea...I understand the concepts of looms and control devices ....just wanted to know if it's been done before.

I love my car..it's handling, braking and motor performance are just beautiful..not to mention the looks of the thing...it's just that I think that the box is disgusting.

It's going back in next Monday (Import dealer), they're going to play with oil aditives (waste of time, in this case, if you ask me), then they'll happilly change the box completely over if there has been no benefit....(they've already re-built mine).

Oh..btw..is anyone interested in a properly manufactured light flywheel for a V35??...(not modified, it's a proper one!)...I know someone who has access to one...

....PM me...and I'll give the flywheel owner's details, then you can talk...Melbourne.

What do you mean a Proper one? You mean like Nismo lightened flywheel or Jun Flywheel and such?

If you already complaining about the Vibration of the Gearbox issues, not sure you want to go with Lightened flywheel. As they'll create a chattering noise Below 2000rpm or so. Make you car sound a bit like a Cement mixture truck.

I've got a manual, i would probably say a cruise control would be a viable alternative, if you get a descent one.

Keep it in second, use the cruise control to raise and lower the speed - not perfect - but better than a whole conversion.

What do you mean a Proper one? You mean like Nismo lightened flywheel or Jun Flywheel and such?

If you already complaining about the Vibration of the Gearbox issues, not sure you want to go with Lightened flywheel. As they'll create a chattering noise Below 2000rpm or so. Make you car sound a bit like a Cement mixture truck.

yes pw350......a proper BRAND NAME one...not a dodgey 're-machined' lightened one....

The reason it's for sale, is EXACTLY for the reasons you've mentioned!....(well done!)....

It's not a fault of the performance fly-wheel, it's a fault in my box....

I'm guessing you are very happy with a Chattering noise on the car? I mean from my driving experience with Manual 350z and Flywheel, does create a huge difference on driving feel as they are more responsive, rev faster and heel & toe better.

If you are getting one Highly recommended the Jun Flywheel, Lighter (than Nismo) and not that much expensive.

Good luck

I'm guessing you are very happy with a Chattering noise on the car? I mean from my driving experience with Manual 350z and Flywheel, does create a huge difference on driving feel as they are more responsive, rev faster and heel & toe better.

If you are getting one Highly recommended the Jun Flywheel, Lighter (than Nismo) and not that much expensive.

Good luck

Hi PW350...I'm getting a little confused buddy......could you re-read my past posts? ;)

I don't and won't have a lightened fw in my car....I would not ever recommend any flywheel, ever, to anybody, for the V35, unless you want more of the 'performance' aspect....(which I don't need, not that way anyway)...That's why I'm potentially selling one (on behalf of somebody else).

I am extemely upset and mad at the 'chattering' noise in my car....that's why it's going back to the dealer.

I now have a 1 inch thich foam pad on the clutch pedal, to help reduce (albeit not very well) the vibration from going up my leg!

Cheers.

Sounds strange that your getting this vibration from the clutch pedel, I had a OS twin plate in my 180sx and it was noisy as when you pushed the clutch in. But i never had any vibration coming from the pedel pushed in or out even when it was shagged after some hard launches @ the drags with slicks on.

Just a random stab in the dark but you may have one of these problems

clutch is miss aligned

hot spots on cluthc/flywheel

weak slave cylinder

cracked or busted gearbox mount

cracked or busted engine mount

Clutch Chatter:

Clutch chatter, a vibration and/or noise when engaging the clutch, is likely to be caused by an internal clutch problem. A warped disc, hotspots on the flywheel or pressure plate surfaces, worn or dry input shaft splines, or worn release bearing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...