Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto To Man Convert?....how About Man To Auto?

superspit
 Share

Recommended Posts

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How hard is it to convert Auto to Man? im happy with the 5 speed Auto for my needs me just wondering

well...it all starts off with you purchasing a manual gearbox..............(wink wink)

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

Manual to Auto - definately impractical and would only devalue your car instantly. Like others have said, even if you were successful, it will not look and feel like an original auto IMO and cost wise just does not make sense.

If you were seriously considering auto, then sell your manual and buy an auto. Buy low, sell high!

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

It'd be a pain in the arse. All the electronics are specific to the trans (since the ECU controls so much of it).

For the amount of effort it'd cost to get it running almost properly, you may as well have bought a car with the right transmission.

180 wanabe Proficient

180 wanabe

Posted
Posted (edited)
well...it all starts off with you purchasing a manual gearbox..............(wink wink)

Well i know that part, I had a friend who converted his auto CA18 sil to a Man, but was wondering with the V35 being somewhat of a more advanced car if it would be a super hass to do

need box, slave cylinder, pedal, center consol. Would the Auto dash still work? I guess things like VDC would stop working unless there was an ECU swap or something

As for going the other way man to auto... U planning on building the worlds 1st 10 sec drag V35 :thumbsup:

Edited by 180 wanabe
mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted (edited)
Manual to Auto - definately impractical and would only devalue your car instantly.

If you were seriously considering auto, then sell your manual and buy an auto. Buy low, sell high!

De-value? I'm still amazed at current pricing trends given Redbook has the same value for Man/Auto and it's currently a buyers market.

Best idea is buy a newer model in an auto. 03MT = 05AT in value going by carsales( give or take a few bob)

Spit, what is your reason for needing an auto? Convenience in peak hour commuting etc?

Or a better option for the ¼ :thumbsup:

either way get a front cut and just sell the motor on

Edited by mosoto
superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lucky...fire seems controlled now.

ok...yeah, seems like rather a silly idea...I understand the concepts of looms and control devices ....just wanted to know if it's been done before.

I love my car..it's handling, braking and motor performance are just beautiful..not to mention the looks of the thing...it's just that I think that the box is disgusting.

It's going back in next Monday (Import dealer), they're going to play with oil aditives (waste of time, in this case, if you ask me), then they'll happilly change the box completely over if there has been no benefit....(they've already re-built mine).

Oh..btw..is anyone interested in a properly manufactured light flywheel for a V35??...(not modified, it's a proper one!)...I know someone who has access to one...

....PM me...and I'll give the flywheel owner's details, then you can talk...Melbourne.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Spit, what is your reason for needing an auto? Convenience in peak hour commuting etc?

Or a better option for the ¼ :D

either way get a front cut and just sell the motor on

Hi mst...

I just think that an auto (5 speeder) would've suited this car more......this frustrated feeling I have is like having an ace looking girlfriend, that just won't go dow........anyways...

Cheers.

whtbox Community Regular

whtbox

Posted
Posted
lucky...fire seems controlled now.

ok...yeah, seems like rather a silly idea...I understand the concepts of looms and control devices ....just wanted to know if it's been done before.

I love my car..it's handling, braking and motor performance are just beautiful..not to mention the looks of the thing...it's just that I think that the box is disgusting.

It's going back in next Monday (Import dealer), they're going to play with oil aditives (waste of time, in this case, if you ask me), then they'll happilly change the box completely over if there has been no benefit....(they've already re-built mine).

Oh..btw..is anyone interested in a properly manufactured light flywheel for a V35??...(not modified, it's a proper one!)...I know someone who has access to one...

....PM me...and I'll give the flywheel owner's details, then you can talk...Melbourne.

What do you mean a Proper one? You mean like Nismo lightened flywheel or Jun Flywheel and such?

If you already complaining about the Vibration of the Gearbox issues, not sure you want to go with Lightened flywheel. As they'll create a chattering noise Below 2000rpm or so. Make you car sound a bit like a Cement mixture truck.

g33k Community Regular

g33k

Posted
Posted

I've got a manual, i would probably say a cruise control would be a viable alternative, if you get a descent one.

Keep it in second, use the cruise control to raise and lower the speed - not perfect - but better than a whole conversion.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What do you mean a Proper one? You mean like Nismo lightened flywheel or Jun Flywheel and such?

If you already complaining about the Vibration of the Gearbox issues, not sure you want to go with Lightened flywheel. As they'll create a chattering noise Below 2000rpm or so. Make you car sound a bit like a Cement mixture truck.

yes pw350......a proper BRAND NAME one...not a dodgey 're-machined' lightened one....

The reason it's for sale, is EXACTLY for the reasons you've mentioned!....(well done!)....

It's not a fault of the performance fly-wheel, it's a fault in my box....

whtbox Community Regular

whtbox

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing you are very happy with a Chattering noise on the car? I mean from my driving experience with Manual 350z and Flywheel, does create a huge difference on driving feel as they are more responsive, rev faster and heel & toe better.

If you are getting one Highly recommended the Jun Flywheel, Lighter (than Nismo) and not that much expensive.

Good luck

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm guessing you are very happy with a Chattering noise on the car? I mean from my driving experience with Manual 350z and Flywheel, does create a huge difference on driving feel as they are more responsive, rev faster and heel & toe better.

If you are getting one Highly recommended the Jun Flywheel, Lighter (than Nismo) and not that much expensive.

Good luck

Hi PW350...I'm getting a little confused buddy......could you re-read my past posts? ;)

I don't and won't have a lightened fw in my car....I would not ever recommend any flywheel, ever, to anybody, for the V35, unless you want more of the 'performance' aspect....(which I don't need, not that way anyway)...That's why I'm potentially selling one (on behalf of somebody else).

I am extemely upset and mad at the 'chattering' noise in my car....that's why it's going back to the dealer.

I now have a 1 inch thich foam pad on the clutch pedal, to help reduce (albeit not very well) the vibration from going up my leg!

Cheers.

180 wanabe Proficient

180 wanabe

Posted
Posted

Sounds strange that your getting this vibration from the clutch pedel, I had a OS twin plate in my 180sx and it was noisy as when you pushed the clutch in. But i never had any vibration coming from the pedel pushed in or out even when it was shagged after some hard launches @ the drags with slicks on.

Just a random stab in the dark but you may have one of these problems

clutch is miss aligned

hot spots on cluthc/flywheel

weak slave cylinder

cracked or busted gearbox mount

cracked or busted engine mount

Clutch Chatter:

Clutch chatter, a vibration and/or noise when engaging the clutch, is likely to be caused by an internal clutch problem. A warped disc, hotspots on the flywheel or pressure plate surfaces, worn or dry input shaft splines, or worn release bearing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...