Jump to content
SAU Community

Medium Compund Semi's

Snowman

By Snowman,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

Who has run the genuine medium semi's on a GT-R before?

As in either the dunlop mediums (propper mediums - not the hard mediums) or the RE55 TT's on a GT-R before?

I was just curious as to what kind of distances they gave before "going off". I've heard it is as little as 5km's but I don't know of anyone that has actually tried.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258267-medium-compund-semis/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

If you are thinking for Targa....the Medium/Hards are very close to the wear limit by the last day and its a 2min penalty per tyre you change. Not worth the chance unless you can get away with it like a wrx on softs.

I've run kumho soft/wets in the dry and they lasted about 250klm of mixed track and road. The grip was amazing on a single lap though.

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well remember for Targa I'm only doing Rookie (so 2 days - not 5).

So I'm not worried about lasting the distance but I am worried about them being actually worse than the hards on the longer stages. My biggest worry is Day 2 where there are 3 stages with basically no touring (35km's with less than 5kms touring in the middle).

But if they will get through a long run ok then they may be a good thing - especially if we get some wet.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Years ago we tried the medium 02G on an R33 GTS with similar grunt to your thing Snow. They were good for about three flying laps of QR club circuit before they stared to go off.

The 03G may be better?

I reckon the SR compound is the go, you'll overheat even those on the way down the Sideling, and thats a big money stage if you can get it all together. Not hard to gain 15 to 20 seconds on your rivals with a grunter like yours mate.

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted (edited)

We had some D03 M1's we tried at Symmons, we found they build up pressure way to fast. I'd do a 5 lap's, come in and drop them to 32 psi, do 5 more laps and have to drop another 5-10psi out to bring it back down to 32 psi. and you could do that all day long, i'm surprised there was any air left in them.

I run D02 R1's on my R32, and they are much more stable. The RE55's SR on the Targa car are very stable too.

Edited by sav man
phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted
Right ok. Prob best sticking to the hards is what you are saying.

It's just that I can get 265/35/18 RE55's TT's for $300ea! Thats a bargin! lol

Snowy: Bargain 265's mate http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TYRES-NEW-BRIDGESTO...A1%7C240%3A1318

I bought 17's on the weekend and they cost a hell of a lot more than that!

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dane - that is the TT's I'm talking about :D Can buy them now for $600 / pair.

But I think unfortunately they aren't going to work at Targa and I don't do enough normal sprint days to justify getting them anyways.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

Snowy we ran Medium 03G's back in the Rookie 2007 on an S15, came up to temp really good and the only issue I can think of was right towards the end of the sideling it got a bit taily (im trying to think though was it tyres going off or that the road had started to break up).

They still had heaps of tread left on them at the finish as they survived a Circuit Series round after that and a god almighty skid and ringies before it got sold.

Having said all that I just noticed Dunlop don't make a 265/18 in medium so scrap that, only make a H and an R comp (the SR that is being referred to by some).

If

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted (edited)
Snowy we ran Medium 03G's back in the Rookie 2007 on an S15, came up to temp really good and the only issue I can think of was right towards the end of the sideling it got a bit taily (im trying to think though was it tyres going off or that the road had started to break up).

They still had heaps of tread left on them at the finish as they survived a Circuit Series round after that and a god almighty skid and ringies before it got sold.

Having said all that I just noticed Dunlop don't make a 265/18 in medium so scrap that, only make a H and an R comp (the SR that is being referred to by some).

Driving style, road temp, and car weight has more to do with this equation. I know guys who did the full TT last year on Dunlop M in evo.

The reason why they dont make M in that size is that those tyres are normally fitted to heavy cars.

Dunlop R, Bridgestone (wet not so good) seem to be the front runners unless your gt-r ends in "Thrty Five"... then you can use BJ all rounders.

TT

Edited by Targa Tom
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Snowy we ran Medium 03G's back in the Rookie 2007 on an S15, came up to temp really good and the only issue I can think of was right towards the end of the sideling it got a bit taily (im trying to think though was it tyres going off or that the road had started to break up).

They still had heaps of tread left on them at the finish as they survived a Circuit Series round after that and a god almighty skid and ringies before it got sold.

Having said all that I just noticed Dunlop don't make a 265/18 in medium so scrap that, only make a H and an R comp (the SR that is being referred to by some).

If

the SR people refer to are a bridgestone compound. not dunlop R's. :wacko:

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah with SR standing for Seriously Rediculous in regards to price with the Dunlops.

In 265/35/18's the prices I can get are:

Bridgestone RE55 TT's - $300ea

Bridgestone RE55 SR2's - $550ea

Dunlop DZ03G R's - $655ea

You can see why I wanted to know if I could use the genuine mediums. I could get 2 sets for less than a set of Dunlops.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

dunlop price varies dramatically with the size. eg:

225/45*17 $465 only about $30 more than most tyres up here.

245/40*17 $560 about $100 per tyre more than other brands (local Brisbane prices).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You're already well into "gearbox is a consumable" territory there. A billet plate will either make it (effectively) 1% stronbger or make it last one more pass. At some point you'll probably tear 3rd gear into small chunks and regret all the life decisions that came before it.
    • dbm7
      forum.r31skylineclub.com down or gone?

      By dbm7 · Posted

      ..and forum.r31skylineclub has been down all week....anyone know why?
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      I thought it could be an issue because the standard plate was flexing when stressed. Maybe the original gear set will hold a bit better without flex? Last time on the dyno it made around 670nm at the hubs. Now it have bigger turbo and better intake but have not been on a dyno yet. The car is being used from family trips to drag race events. So the shifts can be a little violent. It is grinding if I shift to fast so was thinking I should overhaul it soon.
    • joshuaho96
      GTX2867R GEN 2 NO OUTPUT FOR BOOST SOLENOID

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      From the factory on RB26s there's a fitting on the intake manifold collector/"plenum" that provides pre-throttle boost signal. That's how they did it back in the day, I figure it's fine to replicate it.
    • MBS206
      Nissan Skyline R34(ER34) Front Suspension Noise

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would be surprised if that wasn't the issue. It's probably telling you, that even if you remove the plastic liner, you may have some other clearance issues that may occur too in some scenarios. IE, tyre to guard. It looks like someone has already rolled the lip, but you may still have issues in the future IE, turning and hitting a bump etc. The fact it changes how bad it makes the noise when you are going backward vs forward is highly indicative that it's the tyre rubbing. They do make a terrible sound, even if you're only pushing a project car that has a liner hanging down on a tyre!   Has the car been lowered? If it has been, what is the measurement from the centre of the wheel hub to the lip of the guard straight up?
×
×
  • Create New...