Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive just finished builing my new single turbo setup with a t04z use to have twin t517zs making 511 hp on 22 psi

with the to4z it makes 353kws at 15psi as soon as you wind the boost up fom 15 psi it stops making the power goes back wards its like its hitting a brick wall

afrs are 12

ignitons not breaking down was thinking the cams are to small or the standard plume and throttle bodys could be doing it any help would be appreciated thanks tim

engine specs

built bottom end

pored head

tomei type b springs and cams

new guides

800cc injectors

m and w cdi ignition

haltech e11v2 with 3 bar map

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cat/exhaust or wastegate?

the car has

no cat striaght pipe

three and a half inch from turbo back straight through exhaust

and a turbo smart 50mill pro gate

i think they should be up to the task

need some more info. What amount of ign timing? does the timing drop off very rapid once it hits the higher load point? Sounds like its running out of cam though. What specs are the cams. What comp ratio is the engine. etc.

Just throwing around some ideas.

need some more info. What amount of ign timing? does the timing drop off very rapid once it hits the higher load point? Sounds like its running out of cam though. What specs are the cams. What comp ratio is the engine. etc.

Just throwing around some ideas.

the timing is about between 32 at 5000 and 20 at 9000 the cams are 260 by 9.15 and the comp is 8.3

possibly a boost/exhaust leak then? have you checked all your piping, vacuum hoses, exhaust flanges and the rest?

theres no leaks checked every thing in the leak department ive also done a compresion test today and they are all between 120 and 122

the car has

no cat striaght pipe

three and a half inch from turbo back straight through exhaust

and a turbo smart 50mill pro gate

i think they should be up to the task

Have you dropped the exhaust from before the cat to be 100% certain?

Hmm. Sounds very odd. That turbo should be able to generate much more hp.

Any other mods done at the time of the turbo change or just the turbo change.

only the turbo gate and manifold and exhuast to cat all new and its also laggy compared to others on the forum should a t04z with a .82 split housing make 22 psi before 6000

Exhaust manifold design?

Where are the cams set also

the exhaust manifold is a 1.5 inch steam pipe equally length runner at 500 mill each and the cams are set to 0 on inlet and exhaust should such little cams be really lumpy

the manifold collector has to have all the runners peaked for good flow. How lumpy? will be a little lumpy.

Who is the tuner.

So many factors will cause lag.

Can give you the name of a really good tuner in the area, may be able to help you out

the manifold collector has to have all the runners peaked for good flow. How lumpy? will be a little lumpy.

Who is the tuner.

So many factors will cause lag.

Can give you the name of a really good tuner in the area, may be able to help you out

mark at mrc has been tuning it and he cant figure out why its not making power and why its so laggy he does a good job its lumpyer then the rb26/30 he tuned with 290 by 12 cams what do you mean by peaked

the car has no cat i dont run one as the car is a track car

I know that...

Well from where the "de-cat" pipe is, same spot, matters not... So i take it as a NO you have not tried the 10mins quick test to totally discount exhaust

All 6 runners merge into a peak and then into the turbo unlike some of them that have runners facing eachother.

Have you guys played with cam timing yet?

all the runner come to a point then into the turbo tryed playing with the timing on the old setup but didnt make much of a difference only moved the powerband around no gains from it whats the name of the tuner that you no thanks tim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...