Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes. but 3.5 years ago when i built my motor, i wasnt thinking of that.. if im gonna do an external pump it gonna be a propper dry sump set up..

but now days i can make a pretty good wet sump. anyone got a s2 rb30 block etc etc??????? (with the factory idler hole tapped)

So buiild a dry sump setup :( will be fairly expensive though, as you'd know. What pump are you running on your built motor?

hey ive got till the end of 2010 till im licenced :)

Jesus, how did you manage that, you did a decent job whatever it was, well done :blink::P:(

  • Replies 285
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Exatcly.. or build it tough enough to take it. But remember you are doing this to a stock internal rb26dett with about 1/3rd more power than facotry, its days are going to be numbered ever quicker with a rev limitng driving style..

All depends how much power you'e chaising too, preped stock rods, forged pistons, acl bearings, greedy oil pump (either r33 crank or collar the r32 crank) balance every part in the rotating mass, get someone who's good at bolting it all together and you have a 400kw motor no problems. No as dear as some would make out to be and 400kw is nothing to sneeze at..

im doing an engine like that now...Red R Racing prepped stock rods, ARP rod bolts, ACL race pistons, ACL race bearings, Nitto oil pump and collar, Red R Racing 9 litre sump, Tomei oil restrictor, Ross balancer, N1 water pump, Red R Racing prepped and ported head, 260 deg 9.15 camshafts, New Nissan head and main bolts, MLS 1.2mm Head gasket and a full Nissan gasket set. Its based on my old 10.3 drag engine but will be used for circuit work...should make 400+kw on its ear and be ultra reliable. $15K turn key...not too bad considering my old drag engine if copied would work out around $2K to $3K cheaper as it didn't have some of the goodies listed and made 450AWKW all day.

im doing an engine like that now...Red R Racing prepped stock rods, ARP rod bolts, ACL race pistons, ACL race bearings, Nitto oil pump and collar, Red R Racing 9 litre sump, Tomei oil restrictor, Ross balancer, N1 water pump, Red R Racing prepped and ported head, 260 deg 9.15 camshafts, New Nissan head and main bolts, MLS 1.2mm Head gasket and a full Nissan gasket set. Its based on my old 10.3 drag engine but will be used for circuit work...should make 400+kw on its ear and be ultra reliable. $15K turn key...not too bad considering my old drag engine if copied would work out around $2K to $3K cheaper as it didn't have some of the goodies listed and made 450AWKW all day[/qote]

These days its easy(er) to make power pretty cheap, you could even throw in a set of rods for around 700 that come with arp bolts and it wouldn't hurt the wallet to much at all. You could even get away with doing things cheaper if you decided to use an N1 oil pump, stock balancer, stock water pump ect, but I wouldn't suggest or go with it either.

On a side note Paul, when you say turn key, what does that *really* mean as it can be left open to inturperitation..

Also as you mentioned, whats the plans with the RB30 you're thinking of building?

:)

im doing an engine like that now...Red R Racing prepped stock rods, ARP rod bolts, ACL race pistons, ACL race bearings, Nitto oil pump and collar, Red R Racing 9 litre sump, Tomei oil restrictor, Ross balancer, N1 water pump, Red R Racing prepped and ported head, 260 deg 9.15 camshafts, New Nissan head and main bolts, MLS 1.2mm Head gasket and a full Nissan gasket set. Its based on my old 10.3 drag engine but will be used for circuit work...should make 400+kw on its ear and be ultra reliable. $15K turn key...not too bad considering my old drag engine if copied would work out around $2K to $3K cheaper as it didn't have some of the goodies listed and made 450AWKW all day.

What kind of build you recomend for an every day street car, no circut work and no draging?

only looking at the bottom end ofcourse.

What kind of build you recomend for an every day street car, no circut work and no draging?

only looking at the bottom end ofcourse.

ACL pistons and bearings, Nissan main bolts, ARP rod bolts, Resized conrods, N1 oil and water pumps, prepped block (bored decked honed etc), polished crankshaft, crank collar, new idler and tensioner and fully balanced bottom end.

Edited by DiRTgarage
RB28 FTW!

Now that i think about it.. Rb28 was the diesel motor i was thinking about.. it came in the R31 GT-D and has a twin cam head..

has anyone ever done anything with that motor? a diesel motor would be considerably stronger you'd think!

Now that i think about it.. Rb28 was the diesel motor i was thinking about.. it came in the R31 GT-D and has a twin cam head..

has anyone ever done anything with that motor? a diesel motor would be considerably stronger you'd think!

its an RD angus. The D designates deisel obviously. And it has a sohc. I did 750 thou on one. great engine.

Apparently it can take the twin cam head with some minor mods and is a bombproof engine with cylinder walls way thicker than the usual rb to withstand the high compression of the diesel.

I believe the Rb crank drops straight in as well. Definte potential.

Concept... wonder what that would make the capacity..

are the blocks easy to pick up??

I'll let you know later today. Back a few years ago when mine finally died we searched the country for a running replacement and couldnt find one.

A rebuildable stuffed jobbie may be a different proposition tho.

So buiild a dry sump setup :( will be fairly expensive though, as you'd know. What pump are you running on your built motor?

Jesus, how did you manage that, you did a decent job whatever it was, well done :P:P:P

yeah, not one of my brightest days. reffer to my sig and im sure you get the picture

Dave, rips has said on video (correct me if im wrong please Rob) that their motors use Tomei pumps.

If i had a different balancer id be happy to push mine over 8000rpm, thats a jun pump and large sump. But the thing is - they dont need over 8000rpm to make decent power :)

yes. but ripps or anyone that revvs there rb30 past 8k still hASnt told me how the oil pumps stays alive.. or what oil pump they are using...

oh.. i built mine with a jun pump.

I'm pretty sure you'll find its quality parts (eg ati balancer), balancing everything in the rotational mass and good assembly. There's really no other secret than that...

A mate got a pic of the car and did it for me - i think there's a thread about them somewhere if you search :blink:

Back on track: RB30 > RB26

i see your mate was kind enough to leave the tangs off the front of your car.

im more than confident of this...

my rb26 gt-rs > your rb30 gt-rs :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...