Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Quick question, I have a 97 R33 GTS-t.

Up until not its been stock dump/front pipe.

A few days ago I got it replaced with a 3" turbo back...

When I got the car back there was not heat shielding at all,

no heat tape or shields.. Is this normal ?

Do I need heat shielding??

Cheers

Craig

i installed my own dump/front pipe and didnt put the dump shield or turbo shield back on. nothing wrong with it. just keeps engine bay temps down a lil. personally dont think it really effects anything.

It will still fit the turbo. They were just lazy.

I had mine off for a while when i painted them up, and the underbonnet temps skyrocket. It makes a pretty big difference.

Plus the stock turbo looks shit anyway :P

Really?

im gonna ring that prick right now. if it fits i want it on.

It will still fit the turbo. They were just lazy.

I had mine off for a while when i painted them up, and the underbonnet temps skyrocket. It makes a pretty big difference.

Plus the stock turbo looks shit anyway :P

Really?

im gonna ring that prick right now. if it fits i want it on.

LOL!

What dump pipe did you get exactly?

I had a JJR split type originally and the turbo heat shield fit perfect with it. As it was nowhere near the dump pipe itself. But the dump pipe shield, obviously does not. As the OEM dump has brackets to support it :P

EDIT:

It looked like this

PC050025800x600.jpg

And i can 100% guarantee that the turbo shield fits!

Edited by gotRICE?

JJR Split Front/Dump. It looks now like your photo. I can see the shiny pipe too. Previously i couldnt see any of that it had a big ugly looking shield. Maybe im confused but im pretty sure your photo is how mine stands currently? Ill take a photo shortly and post it. He said something about it not lining up anymore?

Haha couldnt get a hold of him ill try again tomorrow.

LOL!

What dump pipe did you get exactly?

I had a JJR split type originally and the turbo heat shield fit perfect with it. As it was nowhere near the dump pipe itself. But the dump pipe shield, obviously does not. As the OEM dump has brackets to support it :blink:

EDIT:

It looked like this

PC050025800x600.jpg

And i can 100% guarantee that the turbo shield fits!

The turbo heat shield will fit, regardless what dump pipe is on there. And yes, the photo above doesn't have the heat shield on there.

Ah yeah my bad, meant to mention that. It wasnt on in that photo for other reasons. Was figuring out what to do with the water line etc. But it was on there soon after no problems.

I had the same dump pipe installed (JJR Split), and when i got my car back, noticed that the shield was missing. I asked the guy why, and he said that the heat shield bolts onto the oem dump... making it now unusable...

Well i dont know what you guys are doing but i had my aftermarket dump pipe running with the stock heat shield for some time until i decided i hated the look of it and wanted something different.

Well i dont know what you guys are doing but i had my aftermarket dump pipe running with the stock heat shield for some time until i decided i hated the look of it and wanted something different.

If you didnt notice, the people saying they dont have them got them installed elsewhere. Its not their faul the place was lazy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...