Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah. last thing you need is a bloke 100000kms away slaging your shit after hes paid good money and the f**ker locks up when its all tensioned down..

shane.. so your countersunk holes are oval? what about when its tightened? wont it centre itself being a taper?

That and relying on someone else to line bore it properly are my my greatest concerns lol

i dont actually use tapered bolts, i use a proper cap headed bolt. And for the 5 8mm bolts on the diff side that u need to tap the block for, i use a special half headed bolt so it leaves enough meat in the plate when its countersunk.

I decided not to use a tapered head bolt as a normal square headed bolt has a greater and more even surface to clamp down with.

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago.

Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails?

Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place.

Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it.

Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas,

Rob

Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago.

Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails?

Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place.

Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it.

Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas,

Rob

Dont worry rob i really do appreciate your pointers as you have been building these things for years and have great results, clearly shows ur a wealth of knowledge.

U prolly didnt see my post just before, but im using a convential cap head bolt, not a tapered bolt. I can see the issues ud have if u used a tapered head bolt though.

Yeh i was going to wait and test it on my own car but its getting some chassis work done atm so it wont be ready to use for sometime, also i'm working with a workshop who have cars available to test on and if testing goes to plan a drag car to test on half way through the year.

I do see issues already like how are we going to overcome differences in thermal expansion (most likely by running non-std clearances), line boring with the 2 different metals and many more, but like u said thats what the testing is there for!

Thanks for the help so far, i really do appreciate it :P

  • 2 months later...

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

good luck with that 1 hey greg

:P

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

I should have posted this 2 weeks ago. A couple of minutes after typing the post above, 16 plates arrived from the laser cutter. They will be machined Monday and back in stock. I'll take some video of the CNC process, it's pretty cool to watch if anyone is interested.

HEY rob in in auckland and would like to know more about your kits can you email me a price and what comes in this kit plz send pics to and if theres more than 1 opp then show me my opps and prices EMAIL me [email protected]

Most of the info you're after is on his website, proengines.com.au - have a look and email him.

I've just used a pro-engines plate, the quality is excellent.

with a bit of work the guys at hills motorsports have retained the internal oil pump pickup too.

Good to hear Duncan, was Mark happy with it?

  • 7 months later...

Sorry for digging up an old thread!

I have a Trust Sump extension and was wondering are the proengines/shane/rips etc internal pickups made for the stock sump?

or are they custom made each order to suit?

I know a GTR in UK has modified a proengines pickup with the Trust pickup however i was wondering is there a bolt on option

We can supply them with a semi finished pickup that needs to be cut to length to suit the depth of the sump. It's a fairly simple job but you need someone who can tig weld to weld it together once you have the length right.

  • 2 weeks later...
Good to hear Duncan, was Mark happy with it?

yep, mostly because it was complete and spot on :thumbsup: there might be cheaper options for basic cost, but this was a straight fit, no stuffing around option which is exactly what any workshop wants.

no point saving $100 and then having the workshop spend 4-8 hours modifying things to fit at $80-100/hr

We ended up using the standard pickup so it is about 1cm higher than normal - as a result I run a little more oil. We could have extended it as suggested but this is just a roady and it wasn't worth the trouble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...