Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Ive had this anoying sqeak for the past week or so only notice it when im going slow and theirs minimal road noise (under say 40km/h). Tonight decided to investigate it a bit more. Ive worked out that when I push down on the Passenger front guard to compress/move suspension it makes the sound.

I removed the wheel and sprayed some inox on the any moving parts i could see to see if somethings just super dry or whatever and then put the wheel back on and had another push and the f**kers still their. :blink:

If i was to remove the coilover and completely remove all the suspension components lube them up and re install will I loose any camber or toe/alignment settings?

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259313-anoying-sqeak-from-front-left/
Share on other sites

i had the same thing. and i know the frustration in trying to find it. but i ended up finding it.

pull the wheel off and undo the bolt at the front of the upper control arm. the is a bush in there with a spring assisted lip seal on it. get some lubex or inox or similar and spary it inside that bush. i poped the spring off and gently lifted the seal up with a small flatblade screwdriver and spayed a heap of Lubex in there.

when you are putting it all back together, put the bolt back in and just nip it up. then lower the car first before doing it up tight.

Yep, QWK32 has it right: I had exactly the same issue from both sides at the front: lubed up all the bushes and it was fine... I'd give that a shot first, and chances are it'll fix the issue.

what am i being carefull for when it springs up will it bash the guard? or just keep my hands clear?

If its just to avoid hand injury ill get cheffstagea over here to do it and not tell him... ive bled many times due to his cars :@!

what am i being carefull for when it springs up will it bash the guard? or just keep my hands clear?

If its just to avoid hand injury ill get cheffstagea over here to do it and not tell him... ive bled many times due to his cars :@!

yeppp cheeerssss

Bang on the money here guys!

Jacked the front on stands. off with the wheel.

Took the bolt out and removed the spings from each seal and pried the seals off. Sprayed some inox inside and then pulled the inserts out of the bush and greased the life out of everyhting. Put it back together and put wheel on dropped car down and snugged the bolt up.

Queit as a mouse =)

Thanks a heap josh!

  • 3 weeks later...

You could just use the whiteline adjustable ones, I've got them in but I'm starting to get the noise on the RHS. I just had a wheel alignment so I'm not going to bother stuffing up my front camber settings just to get rid of a slight squeak.

  • 4 months later...

Just tried to get the MF out. No can do with 17mm ring an two foot lever. Need to get my rattler back.

Incidently when I wanted to search for this thread I typed in "squeak' and got no response. The original post was "sqeak".

Typed that and bingo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...