Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Ive had this anoying sqeak for the past week or so only notice it when im going slow and theirs minimal road noise (under say 40km/h). Tonight decided to investigate it a bit more. Ive worked out that when I push down on the Passenger front guard to compress/move suspension it makes the sound.

I removed the wheel and sprayed some inox on the any moving parts i could see to see if somethings just super dry or whatever and then put the wheel back on and had another push and the f**kers still their. :blink:

If i was to remove the coilover and completely remove all the suspension components lube them up and re install will I loose any camber or toe/alignment settings?

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259313-anoying-sqeak-from-front-left/
Share on other sites

i had the same thing. and i know the frustration in trying to find it. but i ended up finding it.

pull the wheel off and undo the bolt at the front of the upper control arm. the is a bush in there with a spring assisted lip seal on it. get some lubex or inox or similar and spary it inside that bush. i poped the spring off and gently lifted the seal up with a small flatblade screwdriver and spayed a heap of Lubex in there.

when you are putting it all back together, put the bolt back in and just nip it up. then lower the car first before doing it up tight.

Yep, QWK32 has it right: I had exactly the same issue from both sides at the front: lubed up all the bushes and it was fine... I'd give that a shot first, and chances are it'll fix the issue.

what am i being carefull for when it springs up will it bash the guard? or just keep my hands clear?

If its just to avoid hand injury ill get cheffstagea over here to do it and not tell him... ive bled many times due to his cars :@!

what am i being carefull for when it springs up will it bash the guard? or just keep my hands clear?

If its just to avoid hand injury ill get cheffstagea over here to do it and not tell him... ive bled many times due to his cars :@!

yeppp cheeerssss

Bang on the money here guys!

Jacked the front on stands. off with the wheel.

Took the bolt out and removed the spings from each seal and pried the seals off. Sprayed some inox inside and then pulled the inserts out of the bush and greased the life out of everyhting. Put it back together and put wheel on dropped car down and snugged the bolt up.

Queit as a mouse =)

Thanks a heap josh!

  • 3 weeks later...

You could just use the whiteline adjustable ones, I've got them in but I'm starting to get the noise on the RHS. I just had a wheel alignment so I'm not going to bother stuffing up my front camber settings just to get rid of a slight squeak.

  • 4 months later...

Just tried to get the MF out. No can do with 17mm ring an two foot lever. Need to get my rattler back.

Incidently when I wanted to search for this thread I typed in "squeak' and got no response. The original post was "sqeak".

Typed that and bingo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...