Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, droped the car off to boost works to get its 100k service, safc2 and greddy profec b spec 2 install today...

they just called me telling me my turbos were leaking, from what i gather its the exhaust side. he said 950 to pull it all out and change the gaskets for its such a tricky spot. i could pull them off my self if i needed to.

he said coz there wont be heaps of back pressure it will spool quicker and may hurt the turbos.

im not doubting his words at this stage, i didnt get him to go ahead simply coz i just cannot afford it! but how much damage will this be doing, can i do it my self? and where do i get gaskets from??

i was thinking maybe do the gaskets m self, and then trailer it in to get an exhaust done?

its on the 26 in the stagea btw!

Edited by chef_stagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/
Share on other sites

was just speaking to cheff over facebook chat about this before he posted this up.

Will we just need to replace two of these http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=318&page=1 ?

Also what gasket is on the exhaust side?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4455157
Share on other sites

$950?

Just get the turbo rebuilt for that price, as you're probably still running the ceramics?

But for $950, they'd replace the seals as well I'm guessing.

Edit: yeah, they'd replace the seals and gaskets. Kit's for this start at $150 per turbo. Factor in that + labour for removing the turbo's, etc... the price sounds about right for what they're doing.

Edited by CRoNic...
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4455267
Share on other sites

yeh thats it...

spoke to them its the rear turbo, turbo to manifold gasket, there are bolts missing (apparently a common problem) and yeah its just a massive labour job he said. also they told me i shouldnt go booting around as it spools up quicker coz theres no pressure on it? whats the go there? does it make sence and does he mean just dont rev the guts outa it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4456780
Share on other sites

yeh thats it...

spoke to them its the rear turbo, turbo to manifold gasket, there are bolts missing (apparently a common problem) and yeah its just a massive labour job he said. also they told me i shouldnt go booting around as it spools up quicker coz theres no pressure on it? whats the go there? does it make sence and does he mean just dont rev the guts outa it?

if ya handy with a spanner do it yourself

that way u learn, n then if u get stuck call a mate u know with a 26 that knows about em

the best way to learn is do yourself and there is very very little you can do to stuff up a gasket change.

just take your time and remember you will have to drain coolant first and you wil get some oil leakage unless you block the lines up real quick after taking them off

on my mates sr it took us 4 hours to do a turbo and manifold off and back on, replacing all gaskets along the way.

if ya gonna have a crack at it and need to ask more questions pm me, i've done this stuff before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4456832
Share on other sites

cheers dori, ive gota mate with a stag, and a mate with a 26 so im sure they will be willing to lend a hand ! i spoke to boost works and they said i wouldnt expect u to get us to to it coz of the pricw its just such a head case he said... how would you go about doing it? drop the coolant? exhaust n just start taking stuff off from there...

any thing eles i should look at, change or what ever while im that far in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4457217
Share on other sites

just drain the coolant first

then maybe a bit of oil if ya dont want to make a huge mess (if you use a clean container being new oil u should be able to put it back in, as long as you store it in a place where dirt and crap cant get

then take the front and dump pipe off

then take off the oil and water lines from both turbos

not 100% sure on room wise in a stag, but it will def be easier to take the manifold off with the turbos attached still

and then once off unbolt the turbos on the ground

that is basic but u get the idea, my biggest advice is DONT RUSH IT, if it takes two days, good better to be safe then sorry, and PLEASE PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING WHEN YOU BOLT IT BACK

its not rocket science it just takes thinking and alot of 180 degree wrist bends to put that spanner on that nut that wont budge while reaching from the other side to pull the spanner lol

you generally dont have to replace every gasket that comes off

but in your case doing such a big job i would suggest every gasket that comes off should be replaced

so that is block to manifolds (yes theres two), manifold to turbos (two again), turbos to dumps, dumps to fronts

and with no stud on there if it is snapped drill it out and replace it with a nissan one

but at the same time, coz they arent that expensive i would replace all studs (save the hassle if they ever break again)(and they will)

have fun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4458987
Share on other sites

sounds like heaps of fun lol... ill speak to just jap i think about getting gaskets...

these studs your talking about? what are they?

and to make my day better the injector bottom o-rings r slightly leaking? is this a drama?? apart from loss of fuel economy, and a rougher idel?

what do i replace them with? just take of the injector wipe it off and change it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4459451
Share on other sites

sounds like heaps of fun lol... ill speak to just jap i think about getting gaskets...

these studs your talking about? what are they?

and to make my day better the injector bottom o-rings r slightly leaking? is this a drama?? apart from loss of fuel economy, and a rougher idel?

what do i replace them with? just take of the injector wipe it off and change it?

speak to joeleo87, his work makes the o-rings for injectors, he can probably hook u up

-D

Edited by Dohmar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4459519
Share on other sites

Looking at the gasket you're replacing it's the one between the turbo and the manifold. If it leaks you can probably hear it, I had one done on my 33. As for not booting it i'm not sure that it will do harm to your turbo. Since exhaust gasses leaking before the turbo would mean less going through, less boost and less pressure on the turbo. If it was leaking at the dump side then it may cause it to spool faster but no more than you'd expect from a high flowing exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4460265
Share on other sites

Looking at the gasket you're replacing it's the one between the turbo and the manifold. If it leaks you can probably hear it, I had one done on my 33. As for not booting it i'm not sure that it will do harm to your turbo. Since exhaust gasses leaking before the turbo would mean less going through, less boost and less pressure on the turbo. If it was leaking at the dump side then it may cause it to spool faster but no more than you'd expect from a high flowing exhaust.

very very true... did you get urs done at the place we spoke about? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4461346
Share on other sites

Nah, i had mine done at nissan, cost around $700 there but i had all the manifolds machined, plus they are buy no means the cheapest place around.

I had my exhaust fitted there, they quoted me $100, but a bolt snapped, which happens unfortunatly, had to remove turbo to get it out, cost another $100 on top. $200 still a good price just for the install. They also did my timing belt and water pump at a very good price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259372-leaking-turbo/#findComment-4462236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...