Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Change Question

Mr GTS4

By Mr GTS4,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
Posted

hay just a quick one for you all....

i had this with my r32 as well (4wd). everytime i change the oil filter, it doesn't matter what i put under there or what i lose heaps of oil from it and it leaks all over the stuff below it and its really starting to shit me...

what do you guys do to not lose sooo much oil?

Thanks

curt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259774-oil-change-question/
Share on other sites
BigDirtyJase Experienced

BigDirtyJase

Posted
Posted

even with a relocator kit - it can still be messy (I have a relocator in mine)...makes it eaiser to get the filter on and off...I always have a rag on standby for spillage as there is still some oil in the relocator

STAGE1 Collaborator

STAGE1

Posted
Posted

Here are a couple of photos of my oil cooler and relocation kit. Oil cooler on the driver’s side. Auto cooler on the passenger side

post-25786-1236238450_thumb.jpg

I found a couple of welded nuts in the chassis rail under the driver’s feet (aprox) and made up a bracket to suit for the filter

post-25786-1236238240_thumb.jpg

M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted

sounds to me like you've still got a rubber seal from an old filter on the block - the rubber o-rings can be left behind when you remove a filter so make sure that you take it off if it didn't come off with the filter. if you've still got an old o-ring on (without knowing) and have put a new filter on with its own o-ring then this will more than likely cause a leak. i'd check this before wasting money on a relocator at this point - it's not like the filter on them is exactly hard to get to..

M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted

oops kinda missread the original post :P

there will always be a little oil left in the filter even if you've drained the sump but not enough to worry about?

to answer the q about oil coolers:

they're fine for everyday use but be careful you don't run your oil too cool. ie if it's just a daily and you live in a colder climate i'd advise against it as the oil needs to heat up to thin out and work properly. a few of the guys i know that run oil coolers on daily drivers put bags over them in the colder months of the year to prevent air flow through it and then take them off when it heats up :laugh:

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

I did this yesterday arvo.

Have a greddy oil relocator kit so that it sits up above the fuel filter

Have a fujimoto oil drain release valve, so that its just a flick to release oil then flick back to shut off

Released the oil into old container - only 3750ml WTF?!

changed oil filter, changed spark plugs, then ran on only 5cyl so redid sparkies

filled with 5L Motol 3100V, then reset ecu

test drove revealed issue, redid as above all is great and ready for dyno run next week !

not using an oil cooler myself, just an Automatic gearbox-oil cooler

C.T_07 Contributor

C.T_07

Posted
Posted

Yup i agree with what the guys said above, Drain the sump first & give it a fair bit of time before taking the filter off. I only witnessed a few drops from taking off the filter, from all the times i've done it.

Just have a rag handy :P

webng Experienced

webng

Posted
Posted

Undo filter a little, enough so it's not tight, get a plastic bag, cover entire filter with bag, undo the rest of the filter through the bag. Hopefully most of the oil left over in filter ends up in bag. Oh, and also a rag under the filter for good measure.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

leave the filler cap or a breather hose off while draining oil, walk away for atleast ten mins before considering doing the filter(this is when i do my plugs) then change filter, fit sump plug and new washer(AW12), fill with oil

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Undo filter a little, enough so it's not tight, get a plastic bag, cover entire filter with bag, undo the rest of the filter through the bag. Hopefully most of the oil left over in filter ends up in bag. Oh, and also a rag under the filter for good measure.

Huh? Why not use a drip tray?

Preferably one with a nozzle so you can pour used oil into the container that the new oil came in.

Agree with RBPOWA, drip tray under drain plug, release oil from sump, when finished draining re-position drip ray under oil filter, remove filter and drain into drip tray.

No mess, no fuss :banana:

chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted (edited)
Huh? Why not use a drip tray?

Preferably one with a nozzle so you can pour used oil into the container that the new oil came in.

Agree with RBPOWA, drip tray under drain plug, release oil from sump, when finished draining re-position drip ray under oil filter, remove filter and drain into drip tray.

No mess, no fuss :banana:

he means over the filter to catch those little drops that make ur engin bay look dirty... how much are oil filter relocation kits? the 260s is soooo much harder!

has any one used those new DRIFT filters? apparently they have a bolt on the back of them so if its too tight get a socket onto it and ur set!

Edited by chef_stagea
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
has any one used those new DRIFT filters? apparently they have a bolt on the back of them so if its too tight get a socket onto it and ur set!

So do the K&N oil filters, for about the same price.... and much higher quality (or so I am told by a mate who sells both)

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

yeah I usually do it as you both have described- but I think if your filter has an anti drainback valve this causes problems too - you will get a bit of spillage but not a massive amt

as above says XD drain the sump for good 10 mins :D then take filter off( a little bit will dribble ) then new filter sump washer and wash down sump and filter area new oil off you go :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...