Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday guys i need help wiring my rb25 into my r32 gtst im using the rb25 loom and computor and have searched almost evey forum on the internet and cant find much on wiring eveyone seems to be a bit vague on it...

everyone seems to ;leave detailed infomation out so hopefuly from this come some replys and detailed information on wiring can be added to predators tutorial

i folowed the thread by PREDATOR and worked well until the wiring came i did everything correctly that he said

constant 12v to grey wire near afm plug (injector feed)

ign/ to blue with red trace-on plug that went to little brown junction box

earth/ to black with silver blotches-on plug that went to junction box

my r32 wil stil not start..i looked at the ecu and the red light does not come on ..in my understanding this means ecu stil is not getting power

i can crank the car but does not fire

if any one can help me out with some pics of some information of there own conversion that is running wil be muchly appreciated

i just want to get the motor running for the moment wil worry about other things later

cheers travis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259802-r32-gtst-rb25-wiring-help/
Share on other sites

hey mate,

check wether you have a full 12v power at your eccs relay, as with mine i found there was a power wire that runs from in the 33 dash that provides the power for this relay (and coil pack relay too if its series one) and is the constant power from the computer.

i'll try an dig out what pin number it is on the computer

you should also connect at least the monitor/ check lamp (cat light on the dash)

but a car would crank if the ecu wasnt even connected . it just means it wouldnt fire as the starter motor has nothing to do wih the ecu..(wel in a 32 anyway)

i just need to find someone who has done this conversion and get the wiring explained a little bit more detailed..as i am not the only person on this forum looking for a good wiring write up

cheers

gday mate thanks for quick reply im not sure how to tel wat series motor i have...

it has two blue relays near th ecu

i think not to sure but think it came from 1994-95 r33..

The R33 Rb25 loom is wired quite differently to the R32 RB20 loom. The main differences include the location of the main power feeds for things like injectors, IGN coil rely, ECCS relay etc. I have prepared a BASIC guide on wiring the main power feeds previously (search my user name) but it is also important to ensure you connect the relevant ECU wires to get it started (eg. fuel pump relay Pin 18, START signal pin 43 etc).

The main power feeds for the RB20 are supplied via the wires connected to the 8 pin plug near the power steering reservoir whereas the RB25 obtains the main power feeds from the plug near the ECU (ie the plug the connects to the body loom in the passenger footwell). Whenever I wire up a loom for someone, I always utilise the original RB20 plugs that mate with the main body loom (ie 3 plugs at passenger footwell and plug near the power steering reservoir) and integrate them into the RB25 loom making it essentially a plug'n'play loom.

You will also need to ensure you remove the water temp sensor for the climate control (on firewall at back of inlet cam cover) and the fuel pump dropping resistor wires (silver rect plug near P/S reservoir - valid if car is originally turbo and you haven't directly earthed the fuel pump) and integrate them into your RB25 loom. I also always use the original wiper plug and wires as the RB25 has a different control of the wiper motor.

If it seems too hard I offer SAU members a plug'n'play loom for $350 + postage. If you supply me both the RB25 and RB20 looms I will produce a plug'n'play loom which literally plugs straight back in and away you go. I wire up everything including tacho, A/C, VCT, boost solenoid, FICD (I add a relay to switch it on when the AC is swithed on), O2 heater, Air regulator etc. Turn around is 1 week or better.

Cheers,

Ben

RB25_into_R32_Wiring_Guide.doc

Edited by BH_SLO32
definately consider ben if you cant seem to get it working for yourself!! best $350 i have EVER spent.. plugged straight in and car started 1st go..

Thanks Daniel, it is good to hear it all went well. I only just finished an RB25 conversion in my sisters car last weekend. Power FC goes in this weekend and she should have a grin from ear to ear!

  • 1 month later...

Can anyone axplain how the power feed works on the RB25 series 2? I finished connecting all the wires to the dash (the 3 R32 plug are now on the RB25 harness). But I still can't figure out how the power goes...On the plug (8 pin) near the power steering I have 7 wires which are:

1. Green/red = signal to A/C

2. Yellow = ????

3. Green/orange = Neutral switch

4. Light blue = Power steering idle up

5. Blue/red = wiper IGN

6. (thick)Red = ????

7. (thick)Red/blue = ????

Hope someone could help.

Edited by BigC1988
  • 3 months later...

A massive thanks goes to BH_SLO32 for providing the basic guide. :(

This guide got the ball rolling for what took less than a day to do, started first go. :P

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30...pg?t=1248868491

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30...pg?t=1248868502

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30...pg?t=1248868506

Edited by Alf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...