Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thinking of buying a 33 gtr ....at the moment im seing alot of modded gtr's are they worth it or are they just a hassel with rebuilds and such. alot of them have stated rebuilt or only run in 10k kilometers ago.. my question is are they worth buying OR should i just buy a standard one.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260078-33-gtr/
Share on other sites

What a magnificent machine!

Now down to business...

Some people prefer to buy one modded and they'll take extra precautions during their preliminary inspections > on a hoist > compression tests > cracked rotors with heat spots > seepage yaddayadda

Some people will prefer to buy unmodded. I bought my R33 GT-R that way and added some bolt-ons as I went. And then I thought.. this is costing me a lot of moolah

With no regrets, I sold a perfectly good R33 GT-R to a guy who wanted it with not too many mods.

Then I was ready to buy an R34 GT-R with mods. I've had it for 3 years now and only had to replace an oil pump. Yeh I'm happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260078-33-gtr/#findComment-4464678
Share on other sites

well the thing is....its a second hand car

theres always going to be maintanence issues...especially for an old car like an R33 ... especially R32s.....

even R34s are dated if you realling think about it.... 2000' is nearly a 10 year old car.

anyhow... most buyers guides for imports actually tell you to be wary and steer clear of modded cars.

boost controllers are an unwelcom sign.....

but some mods can be a bargain..like Twin plate clutches, decent branded exhaust etc...

those are very hefty with pricing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260078-33-gtr/#findComment-4465261
Share on other sites

well the thing is....its a second hand car

theres always going to be maintanence issues...especially for an old car like an R33 ... especially R32s.....

even R34s are dated if you realling think about it.... 2000' is nearly a 10 year old car.

anyhow... most buyers guides for imports actually tell you to be wary and steer clear of modded cars.

boost controllers are an unwelcom sign.....

but some mods can be a bargain..like Twin plate clutches, decent branded exhaust etc...

those are very hefty with pricing.

You've hurt my 2000 R34 feelings Man! Like he's sitting downstairs in my home = a nursing home!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260078-33-gtr/#findComment-4465539
Share on other sites

rofl!

its true though...even a 2 year age makes a big difference....

but then again, dont worry.......the R34 GT-R is Immortal! :cool:

...so this means Jamie, you're coming to the 10th Anniversary R34 GT-R Cruise 26/4/ ??? hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260078-33-gtr/#findComment-4472596
Share on other sites

buy mine, car has done all of 2,000 kms since XSpeed built and tuned it, owes me a shitload that I will never get back, but priorities change pretty much overnight (well in my case in about 2 mins - I am sure you get my drift :/ )

whats the reason for sale if you dont mind me asking?

since the fact you are going to lose out alot

its probably more worthwile to keep it rather than selling it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260078-33-gtr/#findComment-4474325
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...