Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking at getting a r33 lately as I have wanted one since I was 14 and now looks like a good time to start looking for one

And as I am a green p plater with high power restrictions means no turbo for me so n/a it is

But I want to know your opinions on 2 different cars in the gts and gts4

Atm I'm thinkin the gts 4 but I hear it's more petrol hungry because it's heavier and then an awd would need more maintenance then a rwd

And I'm not a guy that really rips burn outs so awd won't hurt me

Would love the gtr drive train and transmission to because then when I'm off my p's I can get something like a gtr engine to chuck into it

So yeah give me ur opinions

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well i have a GTS4 and i can tell you that the extra 100-150 kgs that the 4wd system weights wont make much of a difrence to your fuel consumption.

And there is no extra maintence because its an AWD.

and even after you get off your Ps u just do a turbo conversion you will have a single turbo 4wd car which is a baby GTR in my books.

Think about it dont jump that was a mistake i made with my first car take your time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-4468366
Share on other sites

Like hanibal said.

The 150 odd kg doesn't hut fuel consumption too much with no more maintancence that needs to be done than a GTST.

What are you using the car for? If its just a regular steet car id highly recommend a GTS4. The ATTESSA system is an extra saftey net to catch you when things get hairy.

The only down side to a GTS4 is that you can really feel the extra 150kg being thrown around and lugged around.

Another downside of a 33 GTS4 is that its not as easy as a 32 to lock into RWD. On the upside the ATTESSA system is quicker a 33 than a 32.

The reason I bough a GTS4 was for the extra grip (even though its now being used as a drift biatch) .. and there is a HEAP of it. I also like the notion of RWD and AWD car without having to think. Its also different.. GTST's are spreading like AIDs.. so why not get something different?

My vote is for a GTS4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-4468464
Share on other sites

Yeah the only prob is gettin a gts4 not much ppl have them to sell I guess as I don't find much

Saw ur gts4 u had for sell Hannibalk1ing would love to buy it if I sold my current car and got some cash together

And had a lower price...no offense

Keep it coming guys wanna hear more ppls info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-4468586
Share on other sites

hehe mate im sure you can understand that i jack the price up so that i get what i want and that the person buying has the feeling that they got cash off the price so yea .... cause say i wanted 12k and it was advertised at the price the buyer would want to bring it down and i cant afford to do that.

Im looking to probley start being serious about selling in 2-3 weeks and yea if i cant get what i want for it to buy my r34gtt i will most defently turbo it.

the idea of launching a single turbo skyline with the 4wd system is awesome :) makes me smile haha!... but hmm gets me thinking ill miss the 4wd system for sure...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-4468772
Share on other sites

Any1 out there got some good stuff to say about a gts

Buy the GTS4, kit it, respray it, buy some nice rims, re-do the interior and all that other cosmetic bits.

Then in 3 years buy this;

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Brand-New-Nissan-NU...A1%7C240%3A1318

or drop a fully rebuild RB26/30 into it.

That way you can keep your precious baby that you've worked on for years, without having to sacrifice it for something more grunt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-4475495
Share on other sites

Thought I may add in my 2 cents...

1. There are s1 gts4's.... mine is an example...

2. There is a real advantage in a gts4 over gts's and gtst's, that being that they arent a comon version of the skyline at all, especially in 33 form. My car is turboed and I have been pulled over a number of times, the cops allways start trying to throw power to weight figures at me about too much power per ton so they can give me a 200 dollar fine..... but as soon as I say its a gts4 not a gtst, they go whats that.... I explain the car is awd (like the gtr) so heavier, they go back to their little hand book of common hoon car specs to do the conversion and it always comes out fine because my car is not on their list...... so even though it is more powerful then what is legal, because they dont have the offical specs on the vehicle, they cannot prove it.

3. It is really handy to have attessa helping you out when you need, and I also have a 4wd torque split controller, which basiclly allows me to decide how much power I want delivered to the front and rear... wheather it be 5% front and 95% rear like stock, right up to 50-50%.

4. Im off my p's in about 4 months, I am starting to save up to drop in a 26 (or forge) havent decided yet... but what I do know is that if I want to drop in a 26, its much easier then in a gtst.

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260401-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-4477307
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...