Jump to content
SAU Community

Decided To Go Big Hp

passin ewe
 Share

Recommended Posts

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted

I've decide to go big HP, so out with the current and in with the new. I'm putting a RB 25det into my C210 coupe, so now I'm selling my L28. This was a crate motor from Nismo about 10 years ago. It was freshened about 20,000 ks ago and I have paper work .

From Nismo it came with:

The motor is N42 on N42

Bored to 3.0L

East bear triple weber inlet manifold ( japanese)

East bear tuned length extractors " " "

Triple 45 webers made in Italy ( matching set DCOE)

Motor is in great condition and has good performance.

If need be I can put you in touch with the original owner /importer.

It's a shame most of you on this site are out of W.A but anyone local and interested is welcome to test at your convenience. Looking for about $3200 post-44326-1237038807_thumb.jpgpost-44326-1237038761_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261118-decided-to-go-big-hp/
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

you sure you want to go to a rb25???????

you can still get truckloads of power from a L28, seriously how much power are you after, and will you be able to use it too!

the L series is plenty capable of putting out 300rwkw and torque to match, plus its kinda retro and cool, as hardly anyone in oz does it!

but one factor does come into it, cost.

it is far cheaper to get the power etc out of a RB than an L series... i could get a 200kw 20det package for under 2 grand installed... but im not gunna as then there will be engineering bulshaet to sort out as im moving state like every few years

good luck with selling up, i know it would be sweet addition to anyones vehicle... maybe sign up to viczcar as they do a fair bit of stuff like that

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mag86 I hear what your saying , but to get 300rwkw you'd be talking 3.1 stroker using the LD28 crank probably and they alone are fairly big bucks along with all the other performance parts for L series.I should have got in at the right time and bought up big from the states..I've thought about turbo L28 but again lots of changes to my motor ie: lowering compression, maybe change heads. I've seen some get up and go ones on YOU TUBE. What i do like about the RB 25 changeover is the power and driveability. I could drive this to work on a daily basis, meaning one less car to pay out for yearly. Bottom line is if I don't get an offer of at least $3000 I won't sell it. Instead I'll spend money and get the much needed LSD. I forgot to mention the motor will come with 2 x5 speed boxes. The one in the car and a spare.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Mag86 I hear what your saying , but to get 300rwkw you'd be talking 3.1 stroker using the LD28 crank probably and they alone are fairly big bucks along with all the other performance parts for L series.I should have got in at the right time and bought up big from the states..I've thought about turbo L28 but again lots of changes to my motor ie: lowering compression, maybe change heads. I've seen some get up and go ones on YOU TUBE. What i do like about the RB 25 changeover is the power and driveability. I could drive this to work on a daily basis, meaning one less car to pay out for yearly. Bottom line is if I don't get an offer of at least $3000 I won't sell it. Instead I'll spend money and get the much needed LSD. I forgot to mention the motor will come with 2 x5 speed boxes. The one in the car and a spare.

Why are you guys all DREAMING?????

HP isn't the answer totally on it's own you know.

How would you like 380ft/lb of torque @ 4500 on less than 8.5psi of boost?????????

Cheers, D

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)
How would you like 380ft/lb of torque @ 4500 on less than 8.5psi of boost?????????

Cheers, D

I must say, turboing my N/A L24 has made a huge difference, it has a lot more torque, (above 1800 RPM)

it throws you back into the seats when you stick it into it,

the only down side is that, I need to be so much more careful in the wet, I can easily break tracking in 3rd, and that's a bit scary when you not expecting it (at 110Kmh)

Nigel

Edited by noddle
noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted
sounds like fun!

I Had my son in with me, we were still tuning Megasquirt when this happened the first time, it gave me a big scare, I don't think my son was very impressed..

but I must say, I love the power now, comparing the power from the FI and turbo to my other 240K, it's a huge difference.

I now need to pull my finger out and build my L28 I have waiting.

Nigel

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted
It's a N/A L28, but when I do it, It will be fitted with a turbo. I need to look into getting dished pistons for it

Nigel

Why do you want to dished pistons?. Flattops Have a better flame front.. Higher compression isnt a problem. Its all the the tune..

Btw, you dont need a 3.1L to make 300rwkw.. You can do 300rwkw on a Stock n42/n42 combo l28... You dont need the cubes for the power in the L Serries..

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why do you want to dished pistons?. Flattops Have a better flame front.. Higher compression isnt a problem. Its all the the tune..

Btw, you dont need a 3.1L to make 300rwkw.. You can do 300rwkw on a Stock n42/n42 combo l28... You dont need the cubes for the power in the L Serries..

mmmm 300 rwkw you say out of an L28. Please exlpain, in detail as I'd like to know how without putting the LD28 in and so forth. Are we talking big PSI turbo or just a performance built carburettored L28. Would seriously like to knpw the formula for this kind of HP.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...