Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they have them for sale on Ebay, but thats in America, so you will need it to be shipped

Also on another note, they require modifications to your exhaust because when you put it in your catback hangers will no longer line up, so the catback will need to be shortened by the thikness of the ecv

You would also want to mount it between the cat and the catback because if the epa suspect something blocking your exhaust and try to poke it with a stick they will hit what they would think is a cat

Another thing about the apexi ecv is that it requires about 15-20 turns to go from fully open to 2/3 close position, so it is not a quick adjustment if you wanted to shut your exhaust up very quickly while going past the cops

Ive heard they are not good, cause they are basically a plate which causes a restriction of flow. Give it a bit when its closed and it might cause some harm due to all the back pressure.

Xforce have a varex muffler which diverts the exhaust gasses through another chamber which makes it quieter.

http://xforce.com.au/cars/view_car/29

p71_02.jpg

but then you'll need to chop off your old muffler...

i have a Apexi ECV in my car. its pretty usefull :P

sweet thanks

how much was it to install?

how do you find the controller (are u using the elctornic one?)

how long does it take to go from say 3/4 closed to 100% open

when its 3/4 closed how quiet is the car vs full open?

how does the car drive with it on 3/4 - is it reasonable?

TeamDeceptionz i think the op/and myself would like a bit more info then "its pretty use full"

how quick/slow is it?

how long have you had it for?

do you have pics of the install?

is it electric or manual?

price and where you got it from?

do you notice the car running different or have you had any problems with it?

edit: lol paul bit me by a minute

haha calm down.

to answer paul:

how much was it to install?

No clue, the ECV was installed when the car was in japan.

how do you find the controller (are u using the elctornic one?)

mine is manual not electronic

how long does it take to go from say 3/4 closed to 100% open

doesnt take long at all, i jst pull the lever.

when its 3/4 closed how quiet is the car vs full open?

when it's closed, you can tell a difference it sounds near stock when you're driving.

how does the car drive with it on 3/4 - is it reasonable?

when it's closed or 3/4 it's still drive-able, but you can feel that the car is weaker.. e.g. like when you have AC on. same thing as that.

to answer Ashneel's :

how quick/slow is it?

very quick, just pull it

how long have you had it for?

i've had it since i've imported the car from japan, and im pretty sure its been on the car for awhile.

do you have pics of the install?

no pics of install, bought the car with the ECV in it.

is it electric or manual?

Manual

price and where you got it from?

You can get the ECV ordered from any autobarn (i know this cause i work there) .. or you can call access autoworks directly and it'll be the same price as autobarn; it might be cheaper directly from access because they're a trader here on SAU.

do you notice the car running different or have you had any problems with it?

no problems at all.

Varex mufflers are illegal, if you get EPAd then, when you go to get it passed they will point out that you are not allowed anything blocking the exhaust pipe. And because its adjustable how will you prove that you drive the car with the straight flow closed on the road and not fully open.

There is no win situation when it comes to police, the ECV mounted as close to the cat as possible is the only possible way to get away with having an "adjustable" exhaust.

Another thing about the apexi ecv is that it requires about 15-20 turns to go from fully open to 2/3 close position, so it is not a quick adjustment if you wanted to shut your exhaust up very quickly while going past the cops

dont know where you got this information from, but i have an Apexi ECV and i just pull the lever and it goes quiet, i dont have to do 15-20 turns. Also Athid has that in his S15 and its the same he just pulls it.

yeah thanks guys, im not interested in doing it to make the car legal or not

if i get dicked for noise / exhaust then the ECV wont help or change much

im mainly looking at it to shut the car up sometimes

yeah thanks guys, im not interested in doing it to make the car legal or not

if i get dicked for noise / exhaust then the ECV wont help or change much

im mainly looking at it to shut the car up sometimes

I have a pretty loud zorst, twin cannons. I just use restrictors when it starts to piss me off...shuts it down quite a lot. Flow restriction is quite a lot through, u can feel it on WOT...so generally I just dont use them for the 1 time a month I drive my car.

But on a long trip and I want to take the R33 , its great to shut down the drone...but I can assure you I dont drive it far often

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...