Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How's things. Did your video turn out allright from the autosalon?

Anyway I have had my bar done. It was through SAS paint and panel down winfield way. He done a great job. The guy at SAS his name escapes me now Mario I think has a mate who actually does the welding. Cost about $100 for welding and a bit over $300 for Mario to finish and paint it. I will try and send you a picture. I had the car at the last cruise and unfortunately will probably miss the next cruise due to being away.

Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2612-plastic-welding/#findComment-47367
Share on other sites

Ok the boost controller isn't actually in yet as i'm at the moment typing with black hands and doing my rear brakes :)

Anyway yes I did consider the AVCR but i've been told by to many people/tuners that it is a piece of crap.

Apparently you think you get it setup right and then it goes out and you have to fiddle with it again.

Whereas the Blitz apparently you set and forget the apexi avcr isn't like that.

With the Blitz SBC-iD it is a duel solanoid boost controller that has the usual fuzzy logic and manual/auto modes, scramble etc..

It also has an addon which is called the Power-iD I think which this is the part I liked. :) you can set boost to certian speeds i.e 0-60 12psi then 60-100 15psi then 100+ 100psi :)

Anyway you get the idea. It also tells you estimated horsepower/kw, 0-100 dash 1/4 etc it also has graphs of boost from down low to up top etc..

its got a record function etc..

anway it is around the $1045 mark bran new then I think it costs around $50 to get it over here.

BUT you can buy one here but every 1 says they are $1600 or more.

OR.. You can buy them from where I also get the PowerFC's for ~$900.

The Boost levels at different speeds is what i want as on std boost there is no where near as much wheel spin in first but it is controllable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2612-plastic-welding/#findComment-48071
Share on other sites

Yeah the blitz ones are supposed to be the best at controlling boost. I was going to get a dual sbc but then I got my turbo and will have an external gate, so I will set it and forget. John with the gtrs is trying to sell one, while they dont ahve all the fancy functions they give accurate boost control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2612-plastic-welding/#findComment-48294
Share on other sites

I'll come on a cruise when I get a chance!! I have been in cairns for 3 weeks... am going to singapore middle of next month and leicester in england at the end of october. All for work... we are installing our software system. So I haven't had a chance to finish the red car... still have to put in standard cams and retune... and fit my R33 box and get tailshaft shortened... then I can cruise... so maybe November... urgh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2612-plastic-welding/#findComment-48552
Share on other sites

Boosted32, can you give me the details of the place where you got your front bumper painted?

Also, I need to cut a hole on the bumper cause at the moment air isn't going through properly, the vents are blocked by you know how the standard bumper has all those lines....does anyone know where I can get this done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2612-plastic-welding/#findComment-51376
Share on other sites

plastic welding done at:

Headlamp Supplies & plastic crash repairs

28 Holland street, Thebarton

8443 7077

(I cut the bumper myself)

Painted at:

Beverley auto Repairs

128 William Street, Beverly

8268 7364

Just see what prices they can do... I got it done a while ago and we did some of the preparation ourself so it was cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2612-plastic-welding/#findComment-51379
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...