Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Not sure if this has been covered before but I am interested to see what people think of these two turbos and how they rate for value for money.

To my understanding a R34 highflow can make up to 260 rwkw with all the supporting mods on a RB25 with good response.

And a 2835 pro s can make safe power up to 270 rwkw with all supporting mods with good response aswell.

Now the punchline, R34 highflows go for around $1000 second hand (obviously double brand new) and the 2835 for over 3200 on Slide.

So thats almost similiar power for 1/3 of the price second hand!

Does anyone have of there own experiences to shed some light on this situation? I would love to hear how either of these turbos drive and what you think is the better buy.

Thanks,

Mike

a 2835 is good for more than that... many people have around 280rwkw...

i have 270rwkw on pulp and that's with an exhaust cam gear robbing my top end for a meatier bottom

the 2835 has great response (i'm @ 18psi by 3500)

on e85 i'm making 311rwkw @ 18psi.

personally if i had to buy it on today's prices i'd go a garrett 3071

what about that hypergear hiflow? It's not BB but it uses garett internals and new only costs $900 ? something to consider if on a tight budget ... that extra money can buy a lot of nice supporting mods :)

I guess it depends on the sort of rear housing that you do have. Some of RB25det Neos was released with .63 rear. The high flow can get even more power if that is the case.

If not then better off getting a GT2835Pro S.

Edited by hypergear

Good thread Michael, i will be watching this one as i will be looking an an upgraded turbo quite soon. But as there are so many options its tough to decide.....

But as lots of people say on here, do it once, do it right. So thinking of getting a turbo that is not MAXXED out, just for piece of mind.

But why a 3071? Sure a great turbo, but i plan to track my Rb25 and want to keep it fairly reliable so the 300rwkw a 3071 would easily give me would go to waste on a standard motor.

the HKS 2835ProS is a 56mm compressor with custom HKS turbine cover and 71mm 56 trim compressor, a GT3071 is (usually nowadays) a 60mm turbine in a garrett turbine housing and a 71mm 56 trim compressor. both 450hp compressors (more or less)

sounds pretty similar eh. the HKS turbine covers are a nice bit of kit but they cost a lot more money.

the hi-flows usually use a very similar 450hp compressor but the turbine is the probably the biggest limiting factor due to the factory turbine housing.

for 300rwkw then GT3076 is the most likely reliable way of getting there for a reasonable price.

But is it really worth it getting a 3071 or a 2835 when you can have a second hand highflow for 1/3 of the price and only 20kw less?

Is there that much of a difference in feel between these turbos hence the much higher price tag?

i think you are comparing three glasses of mainstream beer and wondering which one is better.

they are all good choices (assuming 2nd hand hi-flow is in good nick).

they all taste about the same.

they all get the job done.

the biggest issue is that the hi-flow may make a little less power up top (or it may not) but should be pretty line ball down low and mid BUT it should bolt straight on. factory oil, water lines, intake and dump pipe all bolt back on exactly.

the GT3071 and HKS units will have various levels of fiddling around to get it fitted and running potentially adding to the expense.

so if you are happy with 240-250rwkw and save >$1000 then it is hard to argue for spending more money when you will probably spend less than 5% of your time on WOT.

there are heaps of threads on these turbos so it is going to come down to a personal choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...