Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Brembo

Don Dada
 Share

Recommended Posts

Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

post-42272-1237247525_thumb.jpg

Got some R33 brembo today an just need some clarification mounting them..

.

It does not have any L or R markings on them so how do i mount them? Does the bleeding nipples point up therefore placing the smaller piston to the top?

Or does the nipples point down therefore placing the smaller piston below?

Also i noticed there are no shims between the pads and pistons, does brembos have any?

Can anybody identify this pad? (YK14BP)

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/
Share on other sites
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Is there any sequence when bleeding? Front first--back first--Two at the same time etc. etc. etc.

Oooh.... and shims, are there any???

ABS, left rear, right rear, left front, right front. Go for a drive. Maybe have to do it again.

Shims, personally I don't use any. They are there to prevent squeel. You can use some paste instead if you don't have them. At them end of the day squeel is more about the pads than the shims.

Favour time:

Any chance of taking a photo of a Sumitomo calliper pad next to a Brembo equivalent?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/#findComment-4481945
Share on other sites
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

post-42272-1237252228_thumb.jpgpost-42272-1237252311_thumb.jpg post-42272-1237252397_thumb.jpg

Does the brembo come with shims originally?

Maybe i can modify the ones from the sumitomo caliper to work?

I hate squeel :P

The bleeding part i was referring to the two nipples on the caliper itself.... Any particular one first?

Edited by smell
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/#findComment-4482060
Share on other sites
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
  • Author
Posted
is there a massive difference in braking between the sumitomo and Brembos. Obviously the Brembos you can mount bigger rotors etc but is it light and day diff or just slightly better?

Will let u know my opinion as soon as they are fitted and run for a couple of days

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/#findComment-4483922
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

the pads being endless CC-R are a pretty hard core track pad. they will squeal like a biatch, with or without shims, and yes the brembos come with shims as standard. no I wouldn't try and use your old sumitomo ones. you can buy new ones from nissan. or get some aftermarket titanium ones which are supposed to give a good heat barrier too .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/#findComment-4484069
Share on other sites
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the pads being endless CC-R are a pretty hard core track pad. they will squeal like a biatch, with or without shims, and yes the brembos come with shims as standard. no I wouldn't try and use your old sumitomo ones. you can buy new ones from nissan. or get some aftermarket titanium ones which are supposed to give a good heat barrier too .

Did some checkin and it seems that the front did not come with shims only the back.

This was taken from the R33 workshop manual

post-42272-1237334568_thumb.jpg

post-42272-1237334645_thumb.jpg

Excuse the pics.... just snapped them off the screen :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/#findComment-4484173
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
  • Author
Posted
is there a massive difference in braking between the sumitomo and Brembos. Obviously the Brembos you can mount bigger rotors etc but is it light and day diff or just slightly better?

Well the brembos are fitted and i must say there is a noticeable difference in breakin power....

I dont have to press the pedal as much as before and the car comes down considerably faster,it is also very easy to get the tyres screeching now when braking from warp speed :kiss:

Some things ive noticed tho..... there are spots all over the surface of the rotors when the brakes are used moderately,other wise when given a hard time it has a bluish burnt hue Are these spots normal???

When the pads are heated up they make a kind of growling noise when the brakes are used hard,is this normal with the CCR pad? I think this it the most dusty pad i have ever used on any vehicle it stinks up my chrome in one drive!!! No squeel tho :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261460-gtr-brembo/#findComment-4513726
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...