Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My heater core started leaking about a year ago so i disconnected it and all is good. Now my wife is driving the car and would like a working heater for her and the kids. I just havent got the time or effort to have a go at this job myself so i am looking for someone to do it for me.

Does anyone want to do fo it for me (cash paid of course) or can you recommend someone who may be up for the job?

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

Morgan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261577-heater-core-replacement/
Share on other sites

My heater core started leaking about a year ago so i disconnected it and all is good. Now my wife is driving the car and would like a working heater for her and the kids. I just havent got the time or effort to have a go at this job myself so i am looking for someone to do it for me.

Does anyone want to do fo it for me (cash paid of course) or can you recommend someone who may be up for the job?

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

Morgan

Yes its a crap job. Three members spent best part of a day doing it. I just paid a sparky $300 to out and in the dash (it pretty much has to come out completely).

Go onnnn do it yourself, not too hard, did my R31 in 4-5hrs on Saturday, taken it easy with a few drink stops in between.

Nissans are easy to pull apart and put back together, they're just logically built.

Just need to pay attention to the bolt/screw positions and all will be fine.

I also got quoted $300 for the job at some radiator place in Murrumbeena near the train station.

$300 is a decent price for the job to be done.

mine went a yr ago too.

havent fixed it as yet, yes $300 quoted as well at a natrad radiator place, plus second hand core system

havent been too bothered with it as yet, but one day ................

Ska did this job a while back. Have a look in DIY or PM Ska.

Ska's DYI is what convinced me to get someone else to do it. I am too impatient to do that. I can just imagine finishing up with about 20 screws left over after i had put the dash back in.

Surely someone has had this job done by a workshop in Perth?

I might have someone who is going to do the job for me but is still need to get the parts.

mkk

Does anyone know where i can buy a new heater core from? I searched but couldnt find anything yet i remember someone posted up a link to place selling them a while back.

cheers

Morgan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...