A Few Stagea Questions

[too_much_boost]

Thats an interesting point actually. I might look into that bit. I suspect that the RWD front suspension is same as R33 gtst whereas the 4wd version uses R33 gtr

[too_much_boost]

Ok another question

I've read that the chances are the ECU in my car can't be Nistuned, and are similar to the R33 gtst ecu. I then read that people with R33 gtst's are putting Z32 ECU's in (with some wiring tricks) as they are compatible with Nistune.

Using my awesome skills of deduction, I figure that I can probably use a Z32 Auto ECU with my S1 stagea to allow Nistunage.

Has anyone in the Stagea fraternity done this before? Will the Auto cope?

[skidkid]

I have just had a Vi-pec 'plug & play' ecu fitted to our Stagea S2 auto & it goes a treat. You could probably buy & use a torque split controller to go 2wd. Posted S2 afm part no. a few weeks back.

[_Ryan_]

Thats an interesting point actually. I might look into that bit. I suspect that the RWD front suspension is same as R33 gtst whereas the 4wd version uses R33 gtr

WRONG

we have the wishbone front end and i am 90% sure the rwd is macpherson strut thingo... look on the last page of the stagea suspension thread

[unique1]

to convert to rwd is easy enough, grab the stock front axles and pull the cv joints out of them and bolt them back in, rip the 4wd sump off and install a rb25 2wd sump. Remove the front tailshaft and either buy a rb25 manual box or get a gtr box and cut off the tf case. remove all the attessa lines/pumps/etc above the rear diff and its gonna save a good 70kg or so, i have weighed the differences from rb25 box to a gtr 4wd box and its like 35kg difference, then the 4wd sump is 21kg heavier than the rwd sump, front driveshafts are 6kg each from memory, then attessa pumps would a good 10kg+, front tailshaft another 5kg, etc. Alot of hassle really unless you can do the work yourself than its probably worthwhile.

if you go manual then ecu is easy, all of them will work fine.

[Mr_RS4]

I also think the stock brakes are overlooked to a point. I have DBA slotted rotors on the front, stock rotors on the back, braided lines front and rear and a jap brand pad (I cant't read the name) all rotors lines and pads are new btw and use a racing brake fluid (about $45 a bottle) and I was very surprised. Cold performance is good (better than other setups Ive had) but once you get them hot its hard to forget that your pulling up 1700+kg. However I have found the limits of this setup and will probably upgrade to some thing bigger in the future. I mean the rotors are the same as an S14 but are expected to cope with an extra 400 - 500kg or so with crappy 2 piston calipers up front and singles on the rear. Which is why I was so surprised at how good you can make the factory system!!

Why are you so keen to piss off the microtec its probably the tuners and or installers fault it blew the engine, they're not a bad ecu and mazfix have recomended them for use with auto's, it sounds like your going to a lot of hastle to go back to factory ecu setup when you already have something that can be tuned (you'll be sorry when you get it running and find your spending more time at the servo than the road)

[KiwiRS4T]

Ok another question

I've read that the chances are the ECU in my car can't be Nistuned, and are similar to the R33 gtst ecu. I then read that people with R33 gtst's are putting Z32 ECU's in (with some wiring tricks) as they are compatible with Nistune.

Using my awesome skills of deduction, I figure that I can probably use a Z32 Auto ECU with my S1 stagea to allow Nistunage.

Has anyone in the Stagea fraternity done this before? Will the Auto cope?

One of the problems with Stageas is that they were thrown together with bits from the parts bins of various cars. The S1 ecu has the three rows of pins like an R34 but has more in common with the R33 but the wiring is actually unique to the Stagea. Ideally you would be best off with a Vipec which would not only run OK with the auto but would also readily adapt to manual. The cheaper option is to retain the stock ecu and get a daughterboard and chip fitted (not by nistune) which will allow removal of the speed limit, rev limiter altered if wanted, tune afrs and timing and leave all other Stagea functions including auto intact. I am getting one in Auckland fitted and tuned in the car for $800 or locally Toshi and Dr Drift will do the same (don't know about the price).

BTW if someone has fitted a FMIC and Micotec they have possibly also upgraded the fuel pump and injectors?

[Mr_RS4]

Yeah if your really keen on going the stock ecu route a copule of members have had toshi do a rom tune on s1's I think Tangles was one of them?

[too_much_boost]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm still trying to find out what will work and what wont. I will know more when I pick the car up next week and have a chance to pull it apart.

I don't think the Microtech will be an option. I like my cars to have good idle, good fuel consumption, good cold start, good reliability and good power. Microtech rarely deliver on all of those things. The nistunes in my S13's do deliver all those.

How much are these vipecs?

[BensDR30]

FWIW

I would suggest then that the MicroTech's you have been exposed to have been tuned by cowboys, or at the request of an owner who couldn't be bothered paying for a full-range tune.

Of course the NisTune will be good - their basis is the factory maps, whereas something like the MT is a 'from scratch' arrangement.

(I'd love to fit a NisTune to my S1.. *curses Hitachi ECU*)

I'm getting better economy, great cold start, idle and 50% power increase in my DR with an old Haltech E6A - tuned on a dyno by someone who knows what their doing, and then the odd minor tweak performed on the road.

You've certainly got a few decisions to make, and it's good that you're asking the questions.

[32TAXI]

Been running microtech on my sr20 for 5 years!

The more time on dyno the better, just fitted to my s13 track car and tuned by Pits, drives great, fuel consumption better than standard dependant on driving. Got 750kms to 55L highway or 1 hour on track! Power=fuel!

Cold start and idle (step 3 cams) will always be issue as no idle control.

Auto on s1 stagea should have seperate ecu, only needs tps, coolant temp, and few other feeds to function/shift correctly.

Also microtech has input which could rev limit/cut engine during shifts.

If i had $$$, motec or haltech!

My 2c worth!

p.s. Will Apexi pfc R34 gtt fit s2 RS4s manual stagea without wiring mods?

[_Ryan_]

There are a lot of good threads in this section and forced induction performance... it might be worth you spending a good chunk of time familiarizing yourself with what you are buying...

[too_much_boost]

it might be worth you spending a good chunk of time familiarizing yourself with what you are buying...

That's what this thread is all about. I'm asking questions about the stuff I don't already know about. It won't be too long before I'm quite intimate with these cars. It can become pretty tedious reading through a 20 page thread of banter just to find the one line of information that I need, or to find out my particular question hasn't been answered

[KiwiRS4T]

That's what this thread is all about. I'm asking questions about the stuff I don't already know about. It won't be too long before I'm quite intimate with these cars. It can become pretty tedious reading through a 20 page thread of banter just to find the one line of information that I need, or to find out my particular question hasn't been answered

This new format doesn't help. It is very time consuming having to load each post as a page instead of being able to scroll down to look for what you want.

[BensDR30]

Robert,

Edit your view - I'm still using a 'list' view with the max # of posts per page.

[KiwiRS4T]

Robert,

Edit your view - I'm still using a 'list' view with the max # of posts per page.

Yes, done thanks. I didn't realise it was possible til Iamhe77 pointed out the button to me!

[too_much_boost]

Back onto topic of having this thread about ME, what colour sticker and part number does the AFM have on it? People on SAU seem do be advertising different AFMs for R33.

I will be going Z32 later, but I want to get it working with the stock gear first before screwing with it too much

[wolverine]

you should have a pink sticker afm. (ie it should be like an S2 R33).

it is a quick check under the bonnet.

[too_much_boost]

The car currently has no AFM as its running a Microtech, so popping the bonnet wont help me

Anyone want to buy a microtech?

[wolverine]

oops my bad.