Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi man

All the parts i have are for r32 gtr i am wrecking a whole car (yes my baby)but it is ok as i bought another one last weekend in melbourne.

so are u after

2x gaurds,2x headlights,radiator,intercooler core,air con rad,air con fan,radiator support panel,frontbar with lip.

is this what you need?

Edited by NISSANGTS

atm will need front rio bar, radiator and headlights atm.

radiator support panel prob, will need that further inspected.

air con dont give 2 shits about lol, rip that shit out.

what size front mount you got? my old one was 600x300 from memory, my existing piping is fine.

wont need guards as they are fine and weren't damaged.

front bar is a possibility at this stage, depends if i can fix mine up.

Photo0047.jpg

Photo0048.jpg

Photo0050.jpg

Photo0051.jpg

atm will need front rio bar, radiator and headlights atm.

radiator support panel prob, will need that further inspected.

air con dont give 2 shits about lol, rip that shit out.

Hi Funz

pair of headlights

radiator

front reo

radiator support panel

gtr genuine intercooler

everything in good condition and i will deliver tas wide no charge

$1100.00

Hi Funz

pair of headlights

radiator

front reo

radiator support panel

gtr genuine intercooler

everything in good condition and i will deliver tas wide no charge

$1100.00

cheers mate, atm will prob take following:

headlights

radiator (gtr one is exact same as gtst?)

front reo

have sorted FMIC which is exact same size as my old one.

Radiator support panel just appears to be pushed back where bonnet latch is so can prob be pulled back out, anyone able to do this at all?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...