Jump to content
SAU Community

Using Stock Gtr Sized Rda Rotors On A Gtt?

SS8_Gohan
 Share

Recommended Posts

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

was looking at the RDA rotors group buy and had a thought whether i could get R34 GTR sized discs and put them on my GTT, ie oversize the standard OEM diametre...

Not sure of the rears but the fronts are 324 vs 310mm comparatively, but the height difference is only .05mm, which doesn't sound huge but i don't know, could be a massive difference.

Would it be a stupid to run oversized rotors on standard calipers? I thought it might be a cheap upgrade because i doubt there is much difference price wise between the GTR and GTT discs.

If it is possible, would it be a huge headache to modifying whatever to make the GTR sized discs to fit?

cheers,

daniel

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

anyone? i'm looking to burn KRudds money on my car and this might be a place...

my logic at the moment is that the GTR rotor price is VERY similiar to the GTT RDA rotor price, so why not go bigger if it's the same money?

what i don't know is how much of a headache it will be to fit...

  • 1 month later...
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

no you can't. the radius is 7mm different. the only way to do it is to get a bracket to mount the caliper 7mm further out. but you can't obviously as the bolt holes will be more than 7mm. so it would have to offset the caliper to allow you to bolt the bracket to the hub and the caliper to the bracket. considering you are trying to save money, then i would give it a miss. making custom brackets to gain 14mm rotor diameter is not worth the $500 it costs you.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

RDA rotors are pretty cheap troy. maybe $200 or so for a pair of slotted GTR sized ones. there is a bloke flogging them on the forum in the group buy section.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the responses guys :P

I was told i could using something called "dogbones"? that mean anything to anyone?

There wasn't much of a price difference between the GTT and GTR rotors, so that got me keen. I think it was mid $400's all up? (4 discs)

Sounds like it would be too much $$ to make the brackets. Thanks for the info :(

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

right o, so if i can find some already made for this sort of application then maybe it might be worth it...

where'd you get your dogbones from and were they pricey?

cheers,

daniel

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yes dogbones are brackets, but for good ones your looking at $400+ for them. there is no way you'll find some off the shelf to run a 7mm diameter bigger rotor. it's just not worth it. you could get them made but you're looking at $500. and again it's such a small difference it's not worth it. if you were running 280mm or even 296mm rotors it may be worth it. but 310 to 324 is NOT worth it. if you want to waste some money on gaining 14mm in rotor then by all means dig in. :D

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no thanks. Been to Race Brakes before and will never go back. Harold was a tool, the guy working on my car chipped my rim getting one of the caps off, and basically i was told to run some $600 a pair Endless Ceramic pad to fix my supposed brake issues. So much for a supposed SAU Vic sponsor :laugh:

And from a few people i've heard the opposite, the DBA's aren't much chop and to go RDA's. And considering how many people have gone through the Group Buys for the RDA rotors, surely a bunch of people would have problems by now if there were issues with them.

I think i'll probably just go with he Group Buy RDA's in GTT size, keep my QFM A1RM pads i've got now (very similar compound to the RB74's i believe, but cheaper) and perhaps call it a day. Maybe get some braided lines as well. Already got a brake stopper thingy.

thanks for all the help guys :(

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
I think i'll probably just go with he Group Buy RDA's in GTT size, keep my QFM A1RM pads i've got now (very similar compound to the RB74's i believe, but cheaper) and perhaps call it a day. Maybe get some braided lines as well. Already got a brake stopper thingy.

best idea of the thread. :laugh:

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
done. Thanks for the help bubba, but ze baron is making sense and i didn't know they were that expensive.

ok, moving on. Thanks all :P

No worries, I'm with teh baron on this too - in my case it was 296mm to 324mm. I put some DS2500 pads in at the same time so I can't say how much better the bigger rotors or pads are but together, they were a hell of an upgrade over the 296mm rotors + bendix pads.

Oh and slotted 324mm rotors look better than non-slotted 296mm rotors :D

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
no thanks. Been to Race Brakes before and will never go back. Harold was a tool, the guy working on my car chipped my rim getting one of the caps off, and basically i was told to run some $600 a pair Endless Ceramic pad to fix my supposed brake issues. So much for a supposed SAU Vic sponsor :starwars:

And from a few people i've heard the opposite, the DBA's aren't much chop and to go RDA's. And considering how many people have gone through the Group Buys for the RDA rotors, surely a bunch of people would have problems by now if there were issues with them.

I think i'll probably just go with he Group Buy RDA's in GTT size, keep my QFM A1RM pads i've got now (very similar compound to the RB74's i believe, but cheaper) and perhaps call it a day. Maybe get some braided lines as well. Already got a brake stopper thingy.

thanks for all the help guys :blush:

interesting...

i still havent cracked my RDA fronts, and i rate RB74's over endless SSS(FWIW)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...