Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262696-weight-reduction/
Share on other sites

remove cast iron six and fit alloy v8 lol. no sounds like you have most of the bases covered.

could look into rim weights, sometimes can find 1.5kg per rim, depending on what you start with.

there is a couple of kilos saving in molly cage.

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

You should think about reducing/relocating weight in the following order:

Reduce unsprung weight, ie wheels/tyres/brakes etc.

Reduce weight in anything that rotates eg flywheels, pulleys, cam gears.

Reduce sprung weight eg most of your list by either getting rid of gear or replacing it with lighter equivalents.

Relocate weight (Lower, more centred, more towards the rear).

You need to do all the annoying/bullshit things to if you are serious. Like redundant brackets, wiring looms etc etc.

I would avoid drilling holes & removing structural metal unless you really know what you are doing.

Also there is a bundle of weight to be saved in the exhaust, engine bay (brackets, breathers, blank plates, emission control gear etc etc etc), cabin (wiring, HVAC)...

But the best advice I ever got went as follows:

Go on a diet you fat fk.

The advantage of being lighter/fitter is less stress/fatigue in the car & hence better concentration.

Edited by djr81

As stated you're doing pretting good so far. My 32 went on the diet last year removing all that was not used, still have not had a chance to weigh it.

There is alot to save in removing/replacing wiring which i was taliking to Dane (phunkymonkey) in this section last year. I removed all the unused wire in my car. From memory the looms (cabin, boot and engine bay but not the engine one yet) went from around 13-14kg to 7 or 8kg total. More can be saved by re-runing it completely with a better quality of wire. Also the looms have extra wire in them such as earths that are from the boot that attach near the fire wall and there is alot of extra length that can be cut out and re-joined. I was planning on making replacement looms this year for all makes, and custom ones out of special light weight wire but has been put on hold due to the current climent.

Ross

thanks guys, i may hold off on using a hole saw then lol.

Like someone said i'll be cutting off the loose brackets etc that are designed for everyday usage (eg brackets for rear seats etc).

I'm using Work Meisters 18x9,10's on the car. and have 4 piston calipers front.

I am building a 26/30 for it atm, so a lot of those items will be lighter and balanced to suit.

I think my main concern is 'chopping' the loom up... as i dont wont to stuff it up. Do you simply untape the loom, and trace back the wires not needed back to the ecu plug - so any guidance on this would be awesome!!!!

realistically (like most) i'm planning on working with what i have, which is probably already a heavier car than most and try and lighten it as much as possible retaining most of my re-usable parts at a minimum cost.

so please continue with the help, i appreciate it!

Oh an BTW i weigh f*ckall :P so cant help in that department lol

Are you located in Vic if so i can help with the looms.

Its not that hard just work out which plugs you need, remove the others including wire. Most car companys only use one or two looms for all their cars. I have a manual 32 gtst however the looms will suit a gts/gtr,auto,abs and all other options so there is heaps that can go.

I also removed the air con and heater so out went all the wireing and controlls for that. Once i can ill start the replacement looms i was talking about it will make it easy as you can just order it then plug it in.

Ross

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
×
×
  • Create New...