Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262696-weight-reduction/
Share on other sites

remove cast iron six and fit alloy v8 lol. no sounds like you have most of the bases covered.

could look into rim weights, sometimes can find 1.5kg per rim, depending on what you start with.

there is a couple of kilos saving in molly cage.

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

You should think about reducing/relocating weight in the following order:

Reduce unsprung weight, ie wheels/tyres/brakes etc.

Reduce weight in anything that rotates eg flywheels, pulleys, cam gears.

Reduce sprung weight eg most of your list by either getting rid of gear or replacing it with lighter equivalents.

Relocate weight (Lower, more centred, more towards the rear).

You need to do all the annoying/bullshit things to if you are serious. Like redundant brackets, wiring looms etc etc.

I would avoid drilling holes & removing structural metal unless you really know what you are doing.

Also there is a bundle of weight to be saved in the exhaust, engine bay (brackets, breathers, blank plates, emission control gear etc etc etc), cabin (wiring, HVAC)...

But the best advice I ever got went as follows:

Go on a diet you fat fk.

The advantage of being lighter/fitter is less stress/fatigue in the car & hence better concentration.

Edited by djr81

As stated you're doing pretting good so far. My 32 went on the diet last year removing all that was not used, still have not had a chance to weigh it.

There is alot to save in removing/replacing wiring which i was taliking to Dane (phunkymonkey) in this section last year. I removed all the unused wire in my car. From memory the looms (cabin, boot and engine bay but not the engine one yet) went from around 13-14kg to 7 or 8kg total. More can be saved by re-runing it completely with a better quality of wire. Also the looms have extra wire in them such as earths that are from the boot that attach near the fire wall and there is alot of extra length that can be cut out and re-joined. I was planning on making replacement looms this year for all makes, and custom ones out of special light weight wire but has been put on hold due to the current climent.

Ross

thanks guys, i may hold off on using a hole saw then lol.

Like someone said i'll be cutting off the loose brackets etc that are designed for everyday usage (eg brackets for rear seats etc).

I'm using Work Meisters 18x9,10's on the car. and have 4 piston calipers front.

I am building a 26/30 for it atm, so a lot of those items will be lighter and balanced to suit.

I think my main concern is 'chopping' the loom up... as i dont wont to stuff it up. Do you simply untape the loom, and trace back the wires not needed back to the ecu plug - so any guidance on this would be awesome!!!!

realistically (like most) i'm planning on working with what i have, which is probably already a heavier car than most and try and lighten it as much as possible retaining most of my re-usable parts at a minimum cost.

so please continue with the help, i appreciate it!

Oh an BTW i weigh f*ckall :P so cant help in that department lol

Are you located in Vic if so i can help with the looms.

Its not that hard just work out which plugs you need, remove the others including wire. Most car companys only use one or two looms for all their cars. I have a manual 32 gtst however the looms will suit a gts/gtr,auto,abs and all other options so there is heaps that can go.

I also removed the air con and heater so out went all the wireing and controlls for that. Once i can ill start the replacement looms i was talking about it will make it easy as you can just order it then plug it in.

Ross

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...