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Some pads have bigger backing plates and therefore pad area then others, but my bigger rotors mean that the pad doesnt actually contact the whole disc face...but goes pretty close.

The other thing is if you look at the DBA rotors vs the Brembo/AP you will notice the more expensive rotors usually use larger hats and smaller rotors (metallurgy and weight thing), so if you use a AP caliper then you will find that it may not contact the whole disc face of the DBAs either.

But i think you will find the DBAs and std calipers work fine with a good pad (Pagid or other serious pad....your thing must arrive at corners pretty damn quick these days, what power did you enbd up settlign for?)

Mate - I was running on low boost yesterday - 280 rwkw and It was scary when the brakes faded.

I'm too chicken to run on high boost - 330 rwkw + without a brake upgrade... ha ha

280rwkws at low boost :bahaha:

I would need 35bar to make that power, so definitely high boost. What are the SBS pads? Do you have bradied lines and good fluid at the moment???

Im guessing the strd brakes are past their best with your sort of power and grippy rubber, but if you are only doing 4-5 laps at a time, then thye may hang in there if the pads, fluid and lines are up to speed.

Sill getting some big sexy rotors in there and you will know for sure :D

sorry guys just a quick question

i have R33 GTST calipers up front on my R32 if i wanted to get the 5000 series R33 GTR rotors would i need an adapter? and if i need it where can i get it from?

thanks

anf

sorry guys just a quick question

i have R33 GTST calipers up front on my R32 if i wanted to get the 5000 series R33 GTR rotors would i need an adapter? and if i need it where can i get it from?

thanks anf

dude, UAS has these adapters for sale with rotors but im pretty sure the 5000 series are too thick for the gtst calipers, and wrong offset too.. checkout

brake upgrades -skyline

This was my brake setup for Wakefield on Monday the 17th:

* Nissan std Master Cylinder (1mth old)

* Master Cylinder Brace

* Goodrich Braided lines (front)

* DBA4000 Slotted (front/back)

* Calipers overhauled (9mths old)

* RB74 (front - 9mths old)

* Unknown (rear - 6mths old)

* Motul RBF600 (1mth old)

Mum did 11 laps, came in for a 5min brake (just enough to pop the bonnet and check fluids) then I went out and did 8 laps... brakes were fine. Then 45mins later mum did 18 laps and still no issues. Later on in the afternoon I did a hard 15 laps and they just kept going.

I found the RB74 pads performed worst on the cool down laps but the hotter they good (ie; more I pushed) the better they got but since only having "working" brakes for 1mth out of the last 12 I didn't want to destroy them again as it cost me ~$2,000 to get them where they are :)

Ok so im only running 186rwkw and all 67 laps in 5hrs were done between 1m:21sec and 1m:40sec but I think they held up extremely well considering I was only using regular 225 road tyres :)

Next time i'm at Wakefield I'll have some front brake ducts and some cheater tyres to take a bit of stress off the poor brakes :)

Good pads like the Endless NA series + a brake cyl. master brace and MAYBE some new braided lines.

I got a Nismo ECR33 strut brace recently with a brake master cylinder brace attached for about $80 at an Upgarage in Japan.

Whats the best way to set one of these up? Tight against the master cylinder or what? I've just done it up so its resting there at the moment without vibrating... I had never seen one before I got this one.

Racebrakes make dogbone adapters to fit bigger discs using GTR calipers. They looked OK but wouldn't fit onto my GTR.

I upgraded to DBA 5000 and, um, Bremboas (see Bremblos ref to prev) on the front with braided lines and Ferodo 2500 pads. Previously I'd had slotted discs with RB74 pads, tried ordinary Bendix Advance, car came with Lucas pads...was never happy with the feel. Now I'm grinning, confidence in the brakes is huge and the feel is amazing, only problem is the pads squeal like a stuck pig but 'we' are working on that. Can bounce the ABS at will, tyres are the limiting factor now; don't underestimate the effect of tyres on stopping. You could also try Porsche GT3 calipers if you can get them, AP would have a disc to suit but wheel size might be a problem there.

Just my 2c worth.

Scooby said the magic words "Ferodo 2500".

Brendan, if you are reading this and you doubt how good these things are you need to drive my car. Also, what spec is your brake fluid and when was it flushed through (if at all)? After the car sat around for so long it would be a must do item.

Hey Brendan,

My setup:

Front:

R32 GT-R calipers (for bigger disc size + also angled cooling vents - R33 GTST rotors are about the same size, but with non-angled vents)

Endless NA-R brake pads

Endless/Zeal Straight6 Rotors

Endless RF650 Racing Fluid

Project Mu brake lines

Rear:

R32 GTST std rear calipers

Endless NA-R brake pads

Handles heavy braking @ Wakefield + Eastern Creek all day long (60-80 laps at wakefield!). Car has HKSGT2530 turbo running 1-1.2bar & PFC, so carries decent speed into braking zones, and I brake pretty hard.

My opinion:

Unless you're doing supersprints, racing all the time, etc., - overlook the AP/etc calipers, and spend the $$ instead on high quality brake pads both front and rear, discs, brake lines and brake fluid.

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