Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some pads have bigger backing plates and therefore pad area then others, but my bigger rotors mean that the pad doesnt actually contact the whole disc face...but goes pretty close.

The other thing is if you look at the DBA rotors vs the Brembo/AP you will notice the more expensive rotors usually use larger hats and smaller rotors (metallurgy and weight thing), so if you use a AP caliper then you will find that it may not contact the whole disc face of the DBAs either.

But i think you will find the DBAs and std calipers work fine with a good pad (Pagid or other serious pad....your thing must arrive at corners pretty damn quick these days, what power did you enbd up settlign for?)

Mate - I was running on low boost yesterday - 280 rwkw and It was scary when the brakes faded.

I'm too chicken to run on high boost - 330 rwkw + without a brake upgrade... ha ha

280rwkws at low boost :bahaha:

I would need 35bar to make that power, so definitely high boost. What are the SBS pads? Do you have bradied lines and good fluid at the moment???

Im guessing the strd brakes are past their best with your sort of power and grippy rubber, but if you are only doing 4-5 laps at a time, then thye may hang in there if the pads, fluid and lines are up to speed.

Sill getting some big sexy rotors in there and you will know for sure :D

sorry guys just a quick question

i have R33 GTST calipers up front on my R32 if i wanted to get the 5000 series R33 GTR rotors would i need an adapter? and if i need it where can i get it from?

thanks

anf

sorry guys just a quick question

i have R33 GTST calipers up front on my R32 if i wanted to get the 5000 series R33 GTR rotors would i need an adapter? and if i need it where can i get it from?

thanks anf

dude, UAS has these adapters for sale with rotors but im pretty sure the 5000 series are too thick for the gtst calipers, and wrong offset too.. checkout

brake upgrades -skyline

This was my brake setup for Wakefield on Monday the 17th:

* Nissan std Master Cylinder (1mth old)

* Master Cylinder Brace

* Goodrich Braided lines (front)

* DBA4000 Slotted (front/back)

* Calipers overhauled (9mths old)

* RB74 (front - 9mths old)

* Unknown (rear - 6mths old)

* Motul RBF600 (1mth old)

Mum did 11 laps, came in for a 5min brake (just enough to pop the bonnet and check fluids) then I went out and did 8 laps... brakes were fine. Then 45mins later mum did 18 laps and still no issues. Later on in the afternoon I did a hard 15 laps and they just kept going.

I found the RB74 pads performed worst on the cool down laps but the hotter they good (ie; more I pushed) the better they got but since only having "working" brakes for 1mth out of the last 12 I didn't want to destroy them again as it cost me ~$2,000 to get them where they are :)

Ok so im only running 186rwkw and all 67 laps in 5hrs were done between 1m:21sec and 1m:40sec but I think they held up extremely well considering I was only using regular 225 road tyres :)

Next time i'm at Wakefield I'll have some front brake ducts and some cheater tyres to take a bit of stress off the poor brakes :)

Good pads like the Endless NA series + a brake cyl. master brace and MAYBE some new braided lines.

I got a Nismo ECR33 strut brace recently with a brake master cylinder brace attached for about $80 at an Upgarage in Japan.

Whats the best way to set one of these up? Tight against the master cylinder or what? I've just done it up so its resting there at the moment without vibrating... I had never seen one before I got this one.

Racebrakes make dogbone adapters to fit bigger discs using GTR calipers. They looked OK but wouldn't fit onto my GTR.

I upgraded to DBA 5000 and, um, Bremboas (see Bremblos ref to prev) on the front with braided lines and Ferodo 2500 pads. Previously I'd had slotted discs with RB74 pads, tried ordinary Bendix Advance, car came with Lucas pads...was never happy with the feel. Now I'm grinning, confidence in the brakes is huge and the feel is amazing, only problem is the pads squeal like a stuck pig but 'we' are working on that. Can bounce the ABS at will, tyres are the limiting factor now; don't underestimate the effect of tyres on stopping. You could also try Porsche GT3 calipers if you can get them, AP would have a disc to suit but wheel size might be a problem there.

Just my 2c worth.

Scooby said the magic words "Ferodo 2500".

Brendan, if you are reading this and you doubt how good these things are you need to drive my car. Also, what spec is your brake fluid and when was it flushed through (if at all)? After the car sat around for so long it would be a must do item.

Hey Brendan,

My setup:

Front:

R32 GT-R calipers (for bigger disc size + also angled cooling vents - R33 GTST rotors are about the same size, but with non-angled vents)

Endless NA-R brake pads

Endless/Zeal Straight6 Rotors

Endless RF650 Racing Fluid

Project Mu brake lines

Rear:

R32 GTST std rear calipers

Endless NA-R brake pads

Handles heavy braking @ Wakefield + Eastern Creek all day long (60-80 laps at wakefield!). Car has HKSGT2530 turbo running 1-1.2bar & PFC, so carries decent speed into braking zones, and I brake pretty hard.

My opinion:

Unless you're doing supersprints, racing all the time, etc., - overlook the AP/etc calipers, and spend the $$ instead on high quality brake pads both front and rear, discs, brake lines and brake fluid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...